Sri Lanka Recommendations needed
 

I'll be spending a week in Sri lanka at the end of May.

I want to spend most of my time in the Cultural triangle area(Kandy,Anuradhapura,Polonnaruwa,Ella). I'm hoping to go from CMB straight to either Kandy or Anuradhapura (I arrive CMB at 11:50am). Taking advantage of the Hilton January sale and staying at the Hilton Colombo my last night.

If anyone has recommendations for places to stay in the area, experience with hiring a car & driver, I'd love to hear from you.

Also, if you took anti-malaria medication, what did you take?

Thanks

There are some nice clean places but none will be to the standard (or cost) of the Hilton. And we stay many in the three star level or thereabouts.

Lonely Planet does have a recommendation for Ella, Ambiente, where I have eaten but not stayed. The view is remarkable. The rooms seemed clean enough.

In Nuwara Eliya - we stayed at the Hotel Glendower - a renovated colonial house. Clean. Reasonable restaurant.

The only other issue is that driving will take longer than you would expect. Between the roads, the three-wheel bikes and the trucks - speed is not of the essence. Polonnaruwa to Ella will be a full day's drive - if not more.

Happy wandering

Fred

Thanks wandering_fred - I'm not actually looking for hotels at the standard or cost of the Hilton - I managed to snag a 50% off rate so I'm staying there for my last night in Colombo.

I'm definitely looking at the budget to mid range options. I'll check out the Ambiente in Ella.

Did you take anti - malaria meds while you were there?

Do you have any concerns about the raging civil war?

Would I have booked my flights if I was? Besides I think raging civil war is a bit melodramatic. With a few notable exceptions, fighting has been restricted to the northern most part of the island. It's actually a lot safer now than it has been for years. Some FTers went there right after the airport was shelled and have returned many times since.

No matter where you go in the world these days, it pays to be on your guard.

The local recommendations on malarial preventive is doxycycline 100mg daily starting two days before continuing 14 after. I am NOT a doctor - please consult / consider official references.

Stay out of the far northeast and off the Colombo city buses would be my thoughts on the civil war.

Happy wandering

Fred

Was there about ten years ago, so I suspect much has changed...and not for the better. However, if the train to Kandy is still running, you must book it and get a seat in the observation car. Great ride through the countryside. It was possible to do a day trip leaving Columbo around 8a and spending the midday wandering around, then catching the train back later in the afternoon. Nice day's outing. But if you are heading up country, there are some nice "estates" scattered through tea country in the hills.

In Kandy I liked the Hotel Suisse, though it's on the west side of the lake. 15 minute (?) walk to the Temple of the Tooth area.

In Ella I liked Ravana Heights, thought it appears to have had a change in management. Both these paces show up in Google search.

For a car and driver, we went to the car park near the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy and negotiated.

Try to eat dinner one night in the Old Empire Hotel in Kandy. Great SL food. Hotel is a dump, however.

Didn't take anti-malaria meds, but, then, I generally don't take them anywhere, even in rural Cambodia, Lao, etc. I try not to get bitten during the day (dengue) or dusk/dawn (malaria).

In SL, do not believe anyone who comes up to you and says, "I work at your hotel..."

Thanks - would you mind telling me what you managed to negotiate for a driver (or what is considered a reasonable rate range).

I've been researching the various scams (like I work at your hotel, there is an elephant festival etc) and there's no way I'm going to buy gems even from a reputable place.....

Let's just say that the rates you will get around the western oriented hotels will not match the rates my SL friend will get me from his sources around Gampaha (not that far from the airport) I have been pleasantly surprised that most drivers I have encountered speak some English though few with the vocabulary to also be a tour guide. But many with just basic English are very quiet. I wouldn't be shy about asking the (many) taxi desks on the way out of immigration if they would consider "touring packages" though I would expect no bargains. You might do better in Kandy.

And there should be two rates - a mileage rate for local trips (one day) and a daily rate for touring.

Fred

If you haven't finalised your plans I'd definitely think about staying at the Galle Face Hotel but the Regency Wing. It is a unique country and the people are lovely although I didn't do the cultural triangle but stayed at Club Villa in Bentota and the Galle Fort in Galle. Have the fabbest time, it is a wonderful place to go.

My 2 trips were 8 and 9 years ago, respectively. Would say the 2 most memorable places in the country were the town of Gaulle in the south and taking the Lonely Planet advice and making Haputale (in tea country, reachable by train) a base and exploring the nearby national park. Amazing weather they get there. The train system is also scenic but quite a relic.

Hikkaduwa was really a great beach as well, though the tsunami may well have hurt both Hikkaduwa and Galle.

Hands down the best thing about Colombo was staying at the Galle Face Hotel on a $25 rate booked in the early days of Internet booking. They probably renovated and really raised the rates.

I think Kandy is a bit overrated in the same way I think of Chiang Mai proper in Thailand. Though it might be fine as a daytrip base. That elephant orphanage is very well-discovered but still worth a look.

Colombo can have a bad vibe because of all the precautions they have to take to guard government buildings and select other places against truck bombs.

Of all the places I've been, Sri Lanka and the Philippines struck me as the two that are loaded with smart, educated, hard-working people who try to do everything right, but whose countries have paid a steep price for lack of unity and civil war in places.

Amangalla
 

If you make it south to the town of Galle make sure you stay at Amangalla, you won't find a better hotel in Sri Lanka! They have the visit Sri Lanka rate which is 50% off and all the rooms are wonderful. Go to www.amanresorts.com and look at Sri Lanka and then click on Amangalla. All the meals are great but afternoon tea was the highlight. If you don't love it I will refund your money!

Looks great - although it's way out of my price range even at the 50% off rate we're talking $345 per night including tax. Maybe when I win the lottery...!

per aquum's fortress has also been in "50% off" mode

there is a lengthy thread on security, i presume it has recent updates. dont remember which forum?