Very interesting article. I think it is evident that these restaurants are "dumbing down" the experience because their average customer is not necessarily the true connoisseur but is more likely the "big guy in town with big bucks" that's just out to prove to his friends and family how much money he has (very similar to the SIBM in first class ) or working off an expense account to impress the clients.

Its become a trendy thing to do, so they cater the masses vs. the true patron who would really enjoy the experience. It a shame because when done right, it's a wonderful experience.