<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by SoFlyOn:
Since you asked ... (I'll post a few comments here here rather than on the Mileage run forum to keep continuity).
The new EZE terminal is a breeze. I changed a small amount of US$ (although I could have used US$ for everything it turns out). However the exchange rate given by globalexchange at the airport was 3.2 peso/$ (including commision), which is on the low side. Immigration took about a minute to clear (most everyone else was in the Argentine national line). Bags were X-rayed again to clear customs. I was out on the street about 10 minutes after leaving the aircraft. I made my way to the Manuel Tienda Taxi stand and was immediately taken to a cab by a driver (fare to downtown BA, 30 pesos!).
Upon Gaucho's advice I'd booked the Hilton in Puerto Madero ($86/night booked online - these rates are usually advertised only a month in advance). The two taxi drivers I had during my stay spoke no English, so a little Spanish would be necessary - either that or write down the address for them. Only problem I had was pronouncing "Hilton," I should have figured the taxi drivers would drop the "H." Arrived at the hotel about 11am on Saturday morning, and immediately checked in with no problem. Turns out there were very few people staying at the hotel - estimate less the 30% occupied. This is a new hotel, and the rooms and layout are superb. I stayed on the 4 floor (HHilton level, non smoking). The staff at the hotel are mostly in their 20s, and are simply some of the best service people I have ever encountered. Every one seemed to be fluent in English, and were anxious to help whenever they could. They were genuinely pleased to see foreign tourists stay at their hotel.
The weather in BA was glorious - sunny blue skies, with temperatures reaching 17C during the day. Perfect crisp fall weather. I spent most of my time walking around the city (I've done most of the sights before), including walking out by the water in the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur (just a stones through from the hotel). Some of the portenos were even sunbathing. Saturday was Father's day, and Monday was a holiday (Flag day, a moveable vacation day). So only the stores on Florida and the major shopping centers were open then. US$ are welcome everywhere (but it's someone confusing since the peso prices are also written with the $ sign). At the Galerias Pacifico, the posted rate at most of the stores was 3.7 pesos/$. I didn't buy anything (had to resist but I don't really need anything). Great deals on anything made in Argentina, including leather goods (esp. shoes), jewelery, and clothing. There were also some good deals on some European designer clothes.
Very little evidence of begging on the streets - less than in San Francisco for example.
The best deal is eating and drinking. For about $20, you can get fabulous food with great wine and exemplary service! Posted exchange rates at restaurants was generally 3.4-3.6 pesos/$. All tips are in cash, so take small US bills with you as they will be more appreciated than pesos. Unlike the US, where sometimes the 15% expected tip seems high given often the low level of service, you'll be anxious to give as much as possible - many of the waiters are now reduced to basically subsistence levels, but you'd never guess that by their dress or attitude. I routinely gave 50-100% tips, and that was accepted with heartfelt thanks (they know it's not "rich american tourists" throwing their money around, rather an attempt to help them survive). In the current economic climate, tips are not generally expected, and the locals probably only leave a peso or two.
At the Hilton there were only a handful of Americans, but quite a few German businessmen, included the Lufthansa flight crews. I also had an interesting conversation at the bar with a German 747 cargo pilot working for a firm in Luxembourg, who told me that his major cargo out of BA was polo ponies!
The hotel restaurant was crowded with locals on Sunday for Father's day lunch, but at other times only at most a half a dozen tables were occupied. The food and wine there was also great and because of the slow traffic, had a chance to talk to the waiters about the situation in Argentina. For many of these young middle class people their hopes and aspirations have been dashed. Many are trying to find some way to leave the country, since they seem to think that there will be no quick fix for the economy. Many of these people in their 20s want to start or continue with their University education, but the public insitutions haven't been paying the teachers so the only reliable way is to go to private schools. But for that you need money, and with the waiters only making about 800 peso/month it's impossible for them. It's also obvious that there's also quite a few wealthy people living in BA, but the current economic and political crisis just serves to increase the gulf between the rich and everyone else.
The highlight of my trip? Talking to the locals and gaining an understanding of their situation. Would I return? In an instant - just waiting for some reasonable airfares on UA.
John
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I have a keen liking for Argentina myself and have been trying to convince my friends to come down and visit. I have been tipping 40-60% too since I feel sort of weird eating the best meals of my life for 15 US dollars at fine establishments like Cabana Las Lillas.
I am going down there for 2 out of the next 3 weekends. And then in mid July for a week ski trip.