Well, I knew it. After trying many more times to book this thing on the web, then getting a reply to my e-mail from Indian Railways that told me to clear the cache, etc., I finally managed to book my return ticket. But then the real fun started today when my Amex bill showed up. Although I only have one outbound and one return, I've been charged TWELVE TIMES, once for every failed transaction, as well as once for each of the two completed transactions. Great! Now I have wasted another 45 minutes on the phone with Amex to get these charges scraped off, plus 20 minutes composing more e-mails to Indian Railways to tell them that they need to credit me for ten duplicate charges.

Really, it would have been a lot faster (and hugely less of a hassle) to call my hotel in Delhi and get them to do the booking for me. That website is an embarrassment. Beware!