Sorry I was in Greece and London etc. for the last two weeks.

I would definitely look at the Centro Storico. We usually stay in an apartment right on the campo di fiori, but that is not possible for everyone. Our last apartment was near gesu and I really liked it because it was close to the pantheon for good gelato, near the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II which is great for buses. I am not a big fan of the Rome Metro, so I wouldn't use it unless I was going out to EUR.

Most everything you want to see is really within walking or bus distance. The trams, which you can pick up largo argentina are also great for going north south.

I like trastevere for the neighborhood feel as well. Bus service on the viale trastervere, on the lungo tevere and the trams should get you to the center of the centro (either by piazza venezia or the largo argentina) in about 10 minutes.

There are tons of apartments in trastevere and there you won't feel so much like a tourist. There are several open air markets and great supermarkets as well.

As for the Easter/Catholic thing, we were there for a specific event which was to see our Seattle cathedral choir perform at two churches including er, st. peters. It was amazing, but honestly, the city is so overrun with people who are not flocking to the vatican and the major churches on easter, but filing up the monuments and restaurants.

We looked at renting an apartment on via guilia as well, we thought it would be nice, but then the more I thought of it, the more I realized that the zooming cars in the middle of the night would drive me batty.

PM me if you want more info. I am not saying I'm an expert, but I am pretty familiar with the city and can give you some advice on certain areas.

I really likes slowtravel as well...