Originally Posted by
CPRich
Circular Polarizer - you can't put back in Photoshop what's not captured. If you capture a bunch of white glare reflecting off water, you can't PS back-in the image behind the glare.
Agree... I've found them very helpful on water and glass.. and I do not
think I can skip the polarizer
Graduated ND filter - external Cokin mount so split can be placed where needed. Again, blown highlights can only be brought to lighter shades of gray in PS. Shots with different exposures can be merged in PS, but only with fully static scenes.
ND filters - 3 stop - to get slow exposure speeds in bright light - waterfalls, etc.
I've always thought about these two.. but never bought them. for
water falls, I just try to reduce the aperture and and increase the
exposure.. but it makes the picture too sharp.
Regarding lenses, I'd go with the 2.8 versions of those you listed and the 1.4TC. The 2xTC causes too much image degradation. If you need something longer, look at a 100-400L.
2.8 is fast, but look at primes for really low light - 85 (1.8 or 1.2), 50 (1.8, 1.4 or 1.2) and a short one (24/1.4, 35/2.4)
1.4TC it is... I don't really need something with large tele..
I have a 70-300, but I rarely stretch it over 200.
I have 50/1.8 prime already.. and I'll hold on to that.
I'm trying to carry as little as possible.. Thats the reason I mentioned only
1-2 lens. (I can probably do 24-70/2.8L or 24-105/4L + 1.4xTC)
Currently I have 50, 19-35, 28-90(standard) and a 70-300, but I wanted to
get the L lenses.
Considering the cost of these lenses.. I'll get one at a time..
thanks for your input.