I have T-MobileWeb for $5.99/mo on my RAZR. With it, you get unlimited access to any WAP site on the internet, and that includes gmail.com/app. Due to a hole in T-Mo's network, this also works across Europe as long as my phone is registered on a T-Mo site.

If you want to get into the game, I highly recommend ordering T-Mo service through Wirefly and getting the Dash (a $350 SmartPhone/PPC) for free, plus a $50 rebate.