The taxi arrived at the domestic departure area (It is also the international departure area) of Wattay International Airport. I paid the $6 fare and took my baggage inside to QV check-in via the screening machine. Both checked and carry-on bags were stickered. Check-in was accomplished expeditiously, a boading pass was issued, my bag was tagged to LPQ and I went to pay the $1 domestic departure tax. Domestic passport check was closed and did not open for more than 1/2 an hour-so much for leaving for the airport at 1000.

Once passport check opened passengers went through the metal detector and carry-on was scanned. The previously applied security sticker was removed. We then waited in the gate area for boarding. Wattay does not have a lounge, but it has a small snack bar in the waiting area by the gates. I was able to obtain an icy cold guava juice (no Coke Light) and grab a seat at one of the tables. Near me was a big man in shorts who was eating a plate of food. I was to meet him later.

Boarding was per usual through the one rear stair. I noticed that the aircraft had "MA60" stenciled on the fuselage near the door. Open entering, it seemed like this ATR had been shortened. It was a shiny new aircraft, but a bunch of seats were not there. Maybe this was an ATR-42?

Next Luang Prabang

I found that my requested aisle in the rear had become a window near the front. My seatmate appeared, all 6'4, 250+ pounds of him, a Caucasian dressed in shorts and a Lao-emblazoned T-shirt. Sort of a scruffy looking individual that I had noticed in the waiting area. Ever wonder how airlines manage to seat the two largest individuals next to each other so often?

It turned out that he is a consular officer attached to the U.S. Embassy in Vientiane who was going up-country to help by parceling out money for the removal of unexploded ordinance that we managed to drop on Laos during the Vietnam War. He was meeting some NGO and Lao counterparts to drive North.

We had a fascinating conversation during the 40 minute flight about his job, the frustrations of creating a workable program with good benefit and having the funding cut off. We also discussed life as an expat. in Laos (his wife also works in a fairly high position at the Embassy) and dining in Laos. I had made an internet reservation at Le Elephant in Luang Prabang. He confirmed that it is the best French restaurant in Laos. He also suggested Na Dau in Vientiane for dinner my last night.

The flight itself was quite routine, similar to that from Bangkok. Same proficient crew, the plane appeared new and sparkling and it did not crash. The consular officer told me that the MA60 is a Chinese built aircraft, but it was OK because it had Pratt and Whitney engines.

We departed and arrived on time. Baggage arrived quickly and my van to the Villa Santi was waiting. They even had a sign with my name. Since I was the only guest staying at the hotel, we were out of the airport in record time. The remaining names on his sign all were staying at the resort.

The town had changed since my last visit. There was considerable traffic, but not enough to ever cause a traffic jam and the roads seemed to be in better shape.

The Villa Santi checked me in. We went to my non-smoking room which reeked of "you know what". I went back to reception and they assigned the room next door that did not smell of smoke. It was not yet cleaned so the baggage was left in the stinky room and I went to rediscover the town.