I was just there in December and went throught the same debate you're having. I am very independent, and didn't want to feel like I was on someone else's schedule while visiting the temples. I also wasn't sure how much history I could absorb before zoning out...

In the end, I compromised and hired a guide for one of the four days. The other three days I had just a driver - a very knowledgeable driver in terms of the logistics of when/where to go, but not as far as providing any type of historical background.

My one-day guide was the highly recommended Ponheary Ly. She was very adept at interpreting and explaining the Hindu mythology represented in many of the stone carvings. But frankly, the moments I enjoyed most with her were when we visited some local schools, and stopped at the roadside to hang out for a few minutes while watching rice farmers, children playing, and grazing water buffalo.

Hearing about her personal experiences and life in Cambodia were much more interesting to me.

If I go back (and hopefully I will), I definitely will not use a guide, but I will be sure to have a good driver. I also found the book 'Angkor' by Dawn Rooney to be very helpful.

If you do decide you want to book a driver, I have the contact info for the person I used.

Angkor is magnificent - I haven't been able to stop thinking about it. You'll have a great time!