Voyager0927

The following is a trip report for an excursion to Japan that I took last March. I am just getting around to writing about it now. My friend (who I will call AMG) found an amazing sale fare of $539 (with taxes) to fly from BOS to KIX. It was an offer we couldn’t refuse. Unfortunately, we couldn’t spare more than a week to spend in Japan, but since it would be my first trip to the Far East, I was willing to make the journey even if it would be short.

BOS-ORD
United Airlines 881 / 26 March 2006
Boeing 757-200 / N544UA
Dep. 0859 (Sched: 0900)
Arr. 1023 (Sched: 1047)
First Class / Seat 1D

I arrived at the airport at around 0700, then called AMG, who was with her boyfriend over in Terminal B, since he was flying out on AA that same day. Finally, AMG came over to Terminal C and we checked in at the F/*G counter. There was nobody else in line at the time. I had previously requested upgrades using e500’s for the domestic flight but they had not cleared. The CSR gave us DM cards with our BP’s. She said she was not optimistic about the UG’s clearing. My bag was checked with a priority tag. AMG is a Canadian citizen here in America on a long-term work permit, but not an H1B visa. The CSR asked if she needed to collect the I-94 stub stamped “multiple entry” from AMG’s passport, but AMG vehemently explained that the stub was her visa and the CSR shouldn’t touch it.

There was a minimal wait at the TSA checkpoint. I didn’t even need to use the priority lane. An elderly couple in front of us was slow to arrange their belongings. I refused to run my shoes through the x-ray, so the agent at the WTMD had me wait while he swabbed them and ran it through the ETD while I was still wearing them. We checked into the RCC, which was almost empty (<12 pax), and had packaged corn muffins, granola bars, and drinks. The bar was not open at this time. At the gate, the GA announced that three pax had upgrade opportunities. She called my name and explained that she would upgrade me but could not upgrade AMG. I asked AMG if it would be okay to split the PNR, and AMG graciously understood that the upgrades were my reward for flying so much, and on the short domestic leg, I should enjoy the treat. I thanked her profusely. The GA asked me to wait by the podium, and eventually the other GA called me over and spit out a BP for me. He told me that F was now full, so AMG would be stuck in Y+. She did have the benefit of an empty seat next to her, since I had requested window-aisle seats for us so that the middle would stay blocked.

On boarding, by coat was taken and I was offered OJ, coffee, or water. The seat had limited legroom because of the bulkhead, but hey, it’s F. The announced f/t was 2:00 even. The crew showed the upbeat new safety video. We taxied to r/w 9 (which I’m not used to using for takeoffs in that direction). Once an HP A319 cleared on r/w 4R, we took off, with a wheels up time of 0910.

Once at altitude, the single FA for F offered drinks row by row. I got OJ. Then, she came around with tablecloths and asked if we wanted breakfast (of course!). I received a hot egg, cheese, and canadian bacon sandwich on a croissant, but I took the bacon off the sandwich. It was served with a fruit salad of strawberries, kiwi, pineapple, and grapes. The sandwich was fine, and it was good to have a fruit salad without melon. I give it a 7/10 rating. I had a cup of tea after the meal.

We routed over MHT, SYR, BUF, south of YYZ, and north of DTW for an expected early arrival. My coat was returned on descent. We touched down at 1013 on r/w 9R, taxied around the terminal the long way (between T3 and T5), and parked at Gate C17. There was a short delay for the jetbridge to be moved into place.

Once we disembarked, we headed for the RCC in the C concourse. There was a line out the door to get in but it moved quickly. My BP was scanned, and I had to ask for drink chits, at which point the matron scanned AMG’s BP as well. We were given two chits total. The club was rather busy. Once 1100 rolled around, I felt justified in ordering a drink from the bar, so I got a Glenfiddich, while AMG ordered Bailey’s, which she added to a cup of coffee. I also had mini-bagels with Neufchatel cheese and an apple danish.

ORD-KIX
United Airlines 877 / 26 March 2006
Boeing 777-200 / N217UA
Dep. 1242 (Sched: 1212)
Arr. 1703 (Sched: 1720)
Economy Plus / Seat 17J

We boarded this flight as part of Seating Area 1. There was no need to show our passport to get aboard. The 777 seats were very comfortable. I loved the bulkhead in Row 17, since I could put my feet straight out and still not touch the wall. The tray table and TV screen were both in the armrest. There was a delay in pushback because of an unmatched bag. The FA’s performed a live safety demo, instead of showing a video. After push, we crossed r/w 9R and reached 32L, where we were number two after another UA 777, with a wheels-up time of 1301.

The first round of service was a beverage run. With the free booze in Y and a desire to get in the mood for my visit to Japan, I requested Kirin Beer, only to find out that it was brewed in Los Angeles and tasted like crappy domestic beer. The FA’s then began the meal service. No formal menu was provided in Y, so my recap is as follows:

Salad with ham, tomato, and light ranch dressing
Roll with unsalted butter
Chicken teriyaki with steamed rice, corn, and peas
Fresh fruit (grapes, watermelon, canteloupe)
Apple spice cake
Water

There was also a meatloaf option. The chicken had a good texture though the sauce was overpowering. The rice was excellent, the cake was delicious, and the overall quantity was adequate, though not great. I rate the meal 6/10. The beverage cart eventually came by again, from which I got white wine, which was horrible. After the meal, the FA’s offered coffee or green tea (which was a nice Asian touch).

I slept for a few hours but awoke over Alaska and could not return to sleep for the remainder of the flight. I tried to watch the movie Aeon Flux but could not concentrate for longer than half an hour, since it was nonsense. The FA wanted me to shut my window shade, since the sun was up for the entire trip. I wanted to keep it up so I could look outside and read with natural light, so we compromised and I kept it open halfway. About seven hours after departure, there was a snack box service with Chinese noodles, a lemon cookie, and water. It was a good snack for midflight. The FA came through the cabin to fill the noodle bowls with hot water, which you needed to leave covered for four minutes until you ate them. Both a set of chopsticks and a spork were included in the snack box.

Two hours before arrival, hot towels were handed out, followed by a second (hot!) meal service.

Chicken with udon noodles in black bean sause
Fresh fruit (grapes, watermelon, honeydew)
Raspberry shortbread cookies

The other option was cheese manicotti. I though the noodles were absolutely delicious though I wish the quantity of food was greater. 7/10. There was one beverage run with the meal.

Since the Japanese landing cards had not been loaded onto the plane, we could not fill them out while onboard and would have to wait until arrival. The FA’s did have a rather lengthy customer service survey to pass out. Obviously, there were many little bubbles to tediously fill in with those infernal golf pencils, and given my perfectionist tendencies, I had to hustle to finish before landing. We landed toward the northeast on r/w 6, touching down at 1700 precisely.

We disembarked into a largely deserted concourse and were herded onto an escalator to get to a tram, which took us to the centralized arrivals facility. First, we cleared quarantine, which consisted of some officer sitting at a desk presumably looking at a thermoscope. Then, there was a mad dash to the tables where landing cards were available. Once the cards were filled out, we hopped into line for passport control. It took about ten minutes to get up to the desk, where we received entry stickers (not stamps). The departure stub of our landing card was stapled into our passports. Baggage claim was downstairs – AMG’s bag came out quickly and my took longer. It was unclear whether we needed to fill out separate customs forms since we had nothing to declare, but we did, and it turned out that we had needed to do so. The customs officers asked us a couple of questions (purpose of visit, anything to declare), and then we were officially in Japan.

KIX-ORD
United Airlines 878 / 1 April 2006
Boeing 777-200 / N785UA
Dep. 1914 (Sched: 1920)
Arr. 1617 (Sched: 1618)
Business Class / Seat 11D

We arrived at the airport on the JR Kansai Express train from Kyoto. We located the UA counter on the top level of the airport. The UA check-in area was cordoned off and pax had to pass their luggage through an x-ray machine to get up to the check-in desks. There was a separate (and short) queue for elite pax, but it all fed into the same x-ray machine. I expected an inane security interview like those conducted at continental Europe and South America airports, but none was required. Once we cleared the x-ray, an inspection sticker was attached to the bag. There was a station for hand inspection of baggage. It was unclear whether pax were sent to secondary screening straight from the x-ray machine or after speaking with a CSR.

We were directed to an elite check-in CSR at the far end of the desk. I handed over our passports and explained that I wanted to upgrade the ORD-BOS leg of our trip using e500’s. (Since it was a change-of-gauge “through” flight, I was unable to request the upgrade online.) “I’m sorry, but the Chicago to Boston flight is oversold in First,” she said, and then uttered the magic words: “But you have been operationally upgraded on this flight.” My face lit up as I realized that I had finally achieved the holy grail of frequent fliers – an international op-up, even with a bottom-of-the-bucket fare and a non-status travel companion. I explained to AMG that we had been bumped up to business class, but she didn’t quite understand what a big deal it was. Composing myself and acting like I’d been there before, I requested window-aisle seats, but the CSR explained that we had no choice in the matter. (Fine by me, though if my 70-plus segment window seat streak hadn’t been broken by a standby flight in February, I might have been more upset.) I wasn’t quite ready to believe that I had been upgraded to C until I received a BP with Seat 11D listed on it. We were also given an invitation to the Asuka Lounge along with DM cards for the connecting leg.

We headed off to security, where there was a minimal wait. I buzzed the WTMD and had to remove my shoes (and put on these slippers that were too small for me) and walk through again. I buzzed a second time, was wanded, and was cleared. We took the escalator downstairs, filled out our departure stub, and cleared passport control. After a quick stop in the duty-free shop, we took the tram to the gate area. Walking downstairs to the concourse, we rounded the corner from the gate area and went into the Asuka Lounge (listed as an RCC on ual.com, but clearly some other animal). The lounge had a dark mahogany décor with self-serve coffee, soft drinks, beer (from a beer machine!), cocktails, donuts, cookies, cheese, and crackers. AMG and I settled in and had several celebratory pre-departure drinks. The only downside to the Asuka Lounge was that there was no restroom. I needed to leave the lounge and use the restroom in the concourse.

Once the boarding time approached, we headed to the gate area, which was cordoned off. A GA checked our boarding passes and let us in. There was a secondary screening table set up, but we thankfully avoided it. There was no inane security interview either at this checkpoint or in the jetbridge. I though I heard my name paged, which might have meant the elusive double op-up, but when I spoke with a GA at the podium, she told me it was merely wishful thinking. F pax boarded first, followed by C pax. We had aisle-middle seats in the center section of the front row. Once we were seated, champagne, water, and OJ were offered. Slippers and amenity kits were passed out. The amenity kits included socks, an eyemask, ear plugs, tissues, mints, moisturizer and a toothbrush with toothpaste. The seats had adjustable legrests and footrests, along with a winged headrest that adjusts in and out and up and down. The leg rest had trouble staying in position if you pushed too hard. A menu (written in English and Japanese) was distributed on taxi and then the FA's performed a live safety demo. We taxied to r/w 24 and had a wheels up time of 1926. We routed over Kobe on departure. United States customs forms were handed out early and then our dinner orders were taken.

to begin

Sautéed shrimp with cilantro and prosciutto appetizer
Cocktail sauce, fresh lemon, black olive and a seaweed and carrot mix

Fresh seasonal greens
Creamy tarragon or sesame soy dressing

main course

Pan-seared filet mignon with roasted shiitake mushroom cream sauce*
Asparagus with semi-dried toamto and herbed Parmesan sauteed new potatoes

Macadamia nut-crusted breast of chicken with mango lime sauce
Herbed rice pilaf with a carrot, pumpkin and zucchini medley

Japanese Obento selection
An appetizer of spicy vinegared horse mackerel, shrimp with lily root, shiitake mushroom stuffed egg, simmered sweet potato and udon noodles
A main course of silver cod in soy mirin sauce with shimeji mushrooms, vegetables, gingko nuts and steamed rice
Served with green tea

dessert

International cheese selection
Gorgonzola, Red Cheddar

Orange mousse with crème chantilly

midflight snack

A variety of fruit, sandwiches and assorted treats
Hot noodles are available upon request

prior to arrival

Meatballs and mushrooms on grilled eggplant*
Marinara sauce and a fresh fruit appetizer
A low carbohydrate alternative

Fresh seasonal fruit plate with creamy yogurt

* Today’s menu features beef from Australia.

When making reservations on future flights to and from Japan, you may secure the Obento meal service by preordering.

We apologize if occasionally your choice is not available.

The wines served aboard United’s flights are chosen in consultation with Doug Frost, columnist and author (On Wine, 2001; Uncorking Wine, 1996). Mr. Frost has been nominated for the prestigious James Beard Foundation Award and is one of only three people in the world to hold both the title of Master Sommelier and Master of Wine. Mr. Frost and United Airlines have taken a truly global perspective in selecting wines for your appreciation and enjoyment. À votre santé!

featured wines

Your flight attendant will inform you of today’s selections. Some of these wines may only be available on selected flights.

Champagne
Heidsieck Monopole NV Brut “Blue Top” Champagne
Duval Leroy NV Champagne

White Wine
Maison Henry Brochard 2004 Pouilly Fume
Selbach-Oster Reisling Kabinett 2004 Bernkastler Badstube
Geyser Peak Chardonnay 2004 Alexander Valley
Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2004 California

Red Wine
Château Lalande Bielles Vignes 2002 Listrac Médoc
Château Haut-Brisey 2001 Médoc
Bodega Norton Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Luján de Cuyo
Wente Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Livermore

Gekkeikan Sake is available on flights to and from Japan

Sandeman Founders Reserve Porto will be offered during the main meal’s dessert

STARBUCKS® coffee will be available throughout the flight.

The FA’s handed out very warm nuts with a drink run (I got a Glenlivet on the rocks), then refilled the nuts with another drink (champagne). They handed out towels that were very hot. Tablecloths were placed on tray tables. We were given glasses of cold water, and then the appetizer. The shrimp was very savory, the sauce was delicious, the prosciutto was fine, and the roll was a tad stale. The salad had red peppers and cucumbers and was served with sesame dressing. Once I finished my appetized, the FA cleared my dishes and left the tray in place to serve the main course. The filet was bland and overdone, the potatoes had an overpowering vegetable flavor, and the asparagus was fine. The Argentine cabernet was amazing. Meal service felt rushed, since the FA tried to clear my plates before I was finished. Mugs were handed out for coffee and tea, and then the mousse was served. I had some port with my dessert. Both were good, but couldn’t save the meal. I’d rate it 8/10 on the basis of presentation and menu, but compared on taste with other F meals I've had, it’s only 5/10.

I snagged a good six hours of very restful sleep in the comfortable chairs. When I got up to use the bathroom, there was a cart parked in the galley featuring bacon and chicken sandwiches, KitKat bars, chocolate cookies, fruit, and ramen noodle bowls. I grabbed an assortment of snacks, ate them, and returned to grab a noodle bowl. As soon as I turned around, an FA was standing there ready to pour water into the bowl and place it onto a plate. While I was at my seat, I received constant refills of water from a bottle. The seat was really comfortable. I discovered that you could fit the noise-cancelling headphones over iPod earbuds for a great combo.

The second meal was preceded by hot towel service. The meatball dish was delicious. I loved the sauce and the melted cheese. It was served with a croissant roll. I rate the meal 9/10. The fruit plate had kiwi, grapes, apple, and canteloupe. I was unsure whether the meal was supposed to be breakfast or lunch. It was served with juice from a carton, followed by a hot beverage.

The immigration videos were not loaded, so the FA attempted to describe the arrivals procedure but mangled it. It sounded like you cleared immigration and customs at the same time, then went through an agriculture screening. She also made the Airport Transit System to return to Terminal One for connecting flights much more complicated than it is. We approached r/w 9R and landed at 1611, turning off to park at Gate M6. We left most of our blankets, slippers, and amenities on the floor in front of us for landing, since there was no other place to put them.

After disembarking, we made our way down the long hallway to FIS. There was a 10–12 minute wait at passport control. The CBP officer stamped me in with no questions. As for AMG, she was unsure whether she qualified for the U.S. citizen and permanent resident line, but she stood in it anyway. It turned out that the CSR at BOS should have collected her I-94 stub at departure and AMG had to bring her materials to get her work permit re-certified, since she left North America. However, the very gracious CBP agent let her pass on the instruction that “we never spoke and we’ll pretend you never left the country.” My bag was already on the carousel thanks to my *G priority tag. I grabbed it, passed customs in three minutes with no questions, dumped by bag on the conveyor belt outside for connections, and stepped aboard the ATS tram to get back to T1 for my connection.

ORD-BOS
United Airlines 878 / 1 April 2006
Boeing 757-200 / N503UA
Dep. 1756 (Sched: 1800)
Arr. 2108 (Sched: 2120)
First Class / Seat 1A

Once back at T1, we had an easy trip through TSA with no need to use the priority lane. There were maybe five people ahead of us in line. The flight departed out of the B Concourse. About 35–40 minutes before departure, I heard my name called by the GA and told AMG to give me her boarding pass. I approached the podium and the GA asked if I wanted window-aisle seats in Row 1 or Row 6. I requested Row 1 and he gave me two new BP’s for F. AMG was thrilled when I returned with the upgrade in hand. As a result I had upgrades on three of the four flight segments and bulkheads on all four.

The boarding announcements were not particularly audible, be I knew when to head to the plane (first!). We boarded and our coats were taken, then OJ or water was offered. Seat 1A on the 757 beats 1D because there is a cutout that gives you additional leg room. A second round of drinks were offered before push. Instead of ATC, the captain put a radio broadcast of the Final Four game on Ch. 9.

We pushed back, taxied to 4L, and were #1 for takeoff, with wheels up at 1805. It was one of the quickest departures from ORD that I can remember. Stefan, the purser, went back to front in the F cabin, individually showing the pax the catering printout and asking whether we wanted a chicken fajita wrap or the honey teriyaki salmon salad. He offered recommendations and patiently clarified individual pax questions. While I was initially troubled that he wasn’t taking orders by status, I found out on a later flight that if one dish was overrequested, the conflict would be resolved on the basis of status.

Dinner was preceded by drinks (I had Heineken) and very warm nuts. Then, the dinner and dessert was brought out on a tray. I chose the salad, which consisted of salmon on Asian greens with water chestnuts, almonds, mandarin oranges, and sesame dressing. The teriyaki sauce on the salmon was not particularly discernable, but the meal was otherwise very tasty. I also had a roll with butter, white wine, and a warm, partially melted chocolate chip cookie. For what it was, it was a great meal, particularly on a flight of two hours. The crew kept trying to take my tray before I was finished. Hot towels were distributed after the meal, which led me to believe they forgot early on.

I gave Stefan a GTEM certificate to thank him for exceptional service. The pax sitting behind me asked if I had an extra because she wanted to compliment him as well. We touched don on r/w 27 at 2055 and taxied over to Terminal C. Bags were on the belt shortly after we arrived in the baggage claim area.

Overall, for the price I paid, I had absolutely nothing to complain about as long as I made it to my final destination and back safely. However, this trip went well beyond basic transport from Point A to Point B. Trips like this one are why I’m so thankful that I have stayed loyal to UA and its *A partners for so many years. Having 1P status, with the Y+ seats and the RCC access on international flights and the accumulation of e500’s and the priority for op-ups can make 16 hours of flying downright pleasurable. It is tough to move to the back of the plane after spending so much time in domestic F and international C, but hopefully I’ll be back up in the front of the bus many more times on future journeys.