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Part 2

Amanjiwo

First of all the flight from Bali was no hassle at all. The airport in Yogja felt just like the airports in Bali or Phuket, no crowds,easy check-in. Everything went smooth and our baggage came out very fast, no need to bribe anybody like Ericka reported from Solo. It is so easy to go back and forth between Bali and Yogja that this should not keep anybody from going to Amanjiwo. The drive through the city was also no problem, it was busy but no chaos at all and surprisingly no traffic jams, the drive Aman-style with drinks, cold towels and music of your choice was comfortable, though I prefer the Tuareg that Amanjena uses. We saw no destruction and were told that it is all on the other side of the city.

If you love Amans and haven't been to Amanjiwo you just have to go. If you haven't been to an Aman, go anyway. It can easily be combined with Bali and the Cultural Trails package is attractive. A lot of people probably don't go because of the earthquake and Merapi but there really is no reason not to go.

I have probably seen every picture of the hotel that you can find on the web so I had a pretty good idea how it looks and in reality it looks just like that but still, being there is just breathtaking. Amanjiwo is an architectural masterpiece. It is so stunning and beautiful that I could have spent the whole time just walking around. After a visit to Borobudur you realize more and more all the subtle references to the temple in the design of the hotel.

At arrival we were showered with flower petals tossed by two young girls and sat down for a welcome drink. We were then brought to our suite, so impressive, very spacious with a huge terrace and pavilion (kubuk)with a daybed overlooking the valley and a direct view of Borobudur. The suite is very beautiful, my absolute favorite so far, stunningly decorated and furnished and with an outdoor bath. The design is just perfect and so timeless, hard to believe that it is already 9 years old. We got a look at the Dalem Jiwo suite, love the rotunda but a bit out of my price range.

Many people have described the atmosphere as mystical and there is something to it, especially early morning or at sundown when you are on your terrace and the Muslim prayers from 4 or 5 different mosques throughout the valley start one after the other. Yet I would describe the atmosphere mainly as incredibly peaceful and relaxing.

While we were there, 3 to 8 suites were occupied and whether it was breakfast or dinner, we were almost always alone in the restaurant. We liked it that way but still you just wish more people would go there.

If there is one thing that surprised me about Amanjiwo, then it was the food. Outstanding, fantastic, in our opinion the best we experienced anywhere. You expect it to be very good at an Aman but this was out of this world and it is such a great experience to dine in this marvelous open-air dining room.

On our first night there was a huge thunderstorm and it seemed to never stop raining. The water was actually standing pretty high in the walkways so we ran barefoot with shoes in hand up to the restaurant where the staff welcomed us laughing and quickly brought some towels. After that and throughout our journey we had wonderful weather with bright sunshine every day. We were lucky I guess, because it is usually the beginning of the rainy season. Although we had sunshine directly above us, there were clouds in the distance so that we could not see Merapi and just barely the other volcanoes. As a member of the staff remarked to me that is so we have to come back. Good point.

A word about the spa. They actually don't have spa facilities, it is taking place in a converted suite, isn't it strange that most Amans don't have a spa. Now, the Mrs. is a bit of a spa freak, in stark contrast to me as I don't go anywhere near a spa. She considers the Banyan Tree Phuket as the unrivaled leader in overall spa experience, but here too Amanjiwo was apparently a special experience. As I am told she first had a pilat massage performed by a 70-years old woman from a village, who was incredibly kind but did not speak english followed by a reflexology treatment performed by a healer also from one of the nearby villages. This must be a very painful treatment, but it seems to have a transformative effect, at least she came back full of praise and feeling like a new person.

Went to Borobudur early in the morning, had the intellectual tour and rode the elephants back to the hotel, wonderful experience. The temple is really amazing. I would not consider myself someone who is too much into cultural activities but experiencing Borobudur at dawn is special when you are almost alone there. The sunrise though was not so great as it was too cloudy. We learned a lot on the tour, it greatly enhances the experience if you learn about the architecture. Riding the elephants is also something one has to do and great fun to feed the elephants, they are really hungry.

We also did the trek up to Menoreh Hills with our guide Muji who was also our driver and whose company we enjoyed tremendously. We talked endlessly, learned a lot about him, his family, the villages and the Javanese people, and took the long way back to the hotel through one small village after the other which made the trip almost four hours long.

Muji like most of the staff works there since the opening of the hotel and they have an enormous pride in what they do. The whole staff is wonderful and make you feel at home. The place runs so smoothly and you have all the things you love about Amans, no signing of bills, no need to tip all the time, the perfect timing of housekeeping, the relaxed atmosphere, no need to dress up, this total absence of pretentiousness, the little gifts, the flowers, the outdoor bath filled with rose petals when you come back from your trek. The staff is so nice and professional, always there when you need them but never disturbing. If you are open to it, they are very chatty and always inquire about your activities.

I just love it when I grab a book from the library and just sit down somewhere and a waiter comes and asks you if want a drink and you say no, you're fine and he then comes back and brings you a glass of water and some snacks. Not too be missed, the afternoon tea.

The GM was not there during our stay. I read so many great things about him that I would have loved to meet him but the place runs perfectly even when he is not there.

Overall, this was without a doubt the best hotel we ever stayed at. It was truly a once in a lifetime experience. Only downside is that I don't think we will be able to top this, but repeat we can and we will.


Part 3 with Amankila will be ready by monday

I you have have any further questions regarding this trip or any of the other places we have visited, go ahead, I will be happy to answer if I can.

Michael