One thing I'll add in regards to the $30 upgrade fee: if you hold an elite status, the hotel tends to treat you the same as they would if you were doing a paid stay. In other words, as a Gold, I typically get a nice room and - if applicable - lounge access even when on awards. I generally do not book the upgraded room types except when it is getting me a full extra bedroom (e.g., at Residence Inn or TownePlace Suites) and I know that Gold status by itself doesn't usually get those upgrades.

HH and MR are pretty similar here: Gold status gets you a good room in a typical full-service property, but rarely a true suite. Gold gets you lounge access, although across the board Marriott seems to have fewer lounges and lounges that are open fewer days per week than Hiltons.