We're down among the penguins as QF583 veers towards Antarctica to avoid a fierce headwind. Back in Sydney, domestic checkin and security was smooth as ever. The salt-free cook at the QP (Qantas Club) had prepared Minestrone soup, splendid once you replenish the salt. Sir James champagne, quite palatable.

Looking forward to Perth, now a thriving boom-town thanks to China's iron imports - but still a spectacularly pretty place with Kings Park and its wildflowers in the centre.

Snagged the last two seats 19H/J at the back of the UD of VH-EBT, Qantas' domestic-outfitted 743 with a very overcrowded seating configuration. Not a capsule to be seen. But a working electric seat - max 45 degrees recline - and the largest personal IFE screen I've ever seen. Also working laptop power but not permitted to attach Dell computers

We are hoping for warm nuts and cocktails, but from the galley behind us emerges only crashes, shrieks and muffled curses as the (learner) FA's prepare the meals. But when they finally arrive, the wine and food are good, similar to QF Y food, which has dramatically improved this year.

Now as they turn down the lights, not even Qantas' comical service can spoil the magical ambiance of the upper deck of the 747, the low ceilings and tiny cabin recalling the days when flying was a real adventure. :-: :-: :-: