Andy -

Yes, checked bags only. The baggage handlers don't get their hands on carry-ons.

And yes again, Barcelona is usually a very pleasant airport, neatly laid out, easy to get around, and near the city center.

There are indications in today's Spanish press that the Spanish government is trying to reach an agreement to compensate passengers for mishandled luggage and flight cancelations. No idea what they have in mind for the baggage handlers.