Yeah - I forgot to mention that - a real downer was the lack of WiFi - but I will admit that it was kind of nice to once again be completely cut off from the world for 10 hours. No e-mail. No VOIP. The good 'ol days of R&R on board!

Another tremendous downer was the (IMHO) lousy entertainment system on ELS. Only 2 movies at a time. Really sub-par.