Any Michelin 3-star restaurant would go apopleptic at the thought of drinking the same wine with all courses of a meal (even if it is Latour). Several times when I dined alone these restaurants have offered to open any wine "by the glass" for me, though they don't have that on the menu (and price it at 1/4 bottle per glass). For example certain duck dishes are best drunk with Banyul (and probably the only thing Banyul should be drunk with). European restaurants in the past just took it for granted that there will be different wines for each course, thus no need to offer wine pairings on the menu; now they are getting to be a bit more pragmatic with the realities of the market.

The French Laundry encourages bringing your own wine (at least they did with me). An elegant solution to keeping the restaurant focused on food, not having to have a huge wine cellar investment, and being able to accomodate niche wines that are simply unavailable (like aged Ridge).