My trip is actually one for the record books; I returned to BJ last night. However, I'm not posting everything at once because I lack the time/energy to do so.

But, since you mentioned the caves, I might as well finish off my Dunhuang account now.

I first learned about Dunhuang during an art history class in college and almost went there in 1995, but Sanya won out in the end.

What's more, I wouldn't have bothered this time, were it not for my friend's enthusiasm.

Moving off topic for a second, after returning from the dunes, my friend and I decided to eat Korean BBQ (tmk there are two Korean restaurants in Dunhuang and they are next to each other) on the advice of a cab driver. By global standards, our meal was nothing special, but the menu featured --you guessed it -- lamb instead of the standard beef/pork. In any event, it was a welcome change from the constant tua'r diet from previous days.

Back on topic, we woke up the next morning and set out for the caves. We did not disguise our Mandarin abilities becuase the place was desserted and we didn't want to pay the extra y20 for an English speaking guide (on top of the y100 entry fee).

I wasn't all that impressed with the caves, in part because of the regimented tour structure (we only got to see eight caves and the guide unlocked and locked them on a one-by-one basis) and in part because of and in part because -- regardless of their historical significance, I didn't think the caves measured up to others that I'd seen in the past (notably Arangabad). That said, those guys run a pretty slick operation and clearly care about their cause (i.e. it appears they are making noble use of their entry fee revenues).

We were done with the caves by noon, back in town at 12:45p, and on the road back to Liuyuan (in a taxi, this time) by 1:15p. We were running a tight schedule because we were hoping to see the west end of the Great Wall in Jiayuguan before sunset.