I was planning on getting a guide to take me through the camps. That being said I did want to wander on my own after as well, just digest, contemplate.

Now here is the million dollar question. Right now my itin is to go to Krakow enroute to other places (an addition 18 days of travel). With a bit of spinning I can go to Krakow on the end of my trip and then come home from there direct. Given the solemn nature of what it is, what it stands for etc., is it better to save the visit until the end?