After spending an afternoon in Istanbul's sense-dazzling Spice Bazaar, walk to the banks of the Bosphorus for BALIK EKMEK - literally fish bread - served fresh from a smoking grill on a bobbing boat moored at the mouth of the Golden Horn. Fisherman catch bonito or mackerel in the straits, filet and grill them, then toss them into quarter loaves of bread with thick slices of raw onion and tomato - all for a mere 1.5 million Turkish lira. That's an incredible one-buck meal.

from Saveur Magazine Jan/Feb 2005

Take the ferry to the suburb of Kadikoy to the restaurant Ciya where chef Musa Dagdeviren cooks authentic Turkish meals.

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