a recent review of La Sardine, Le Bouchon's sister restaurant
La Sardine
http://frenchrestaurantschicago.com/
111 N. Carpenter St.
(312) 421-2800
Valet parking, $8
Price range, $5-$21
My friends were already relaxing at the handsome bar when I arrived, and both reported snippy treatment by the hostess. (I'd had a similar "greeting" at La Sardine's sister restaurant, Le Bouchon, 1958 N. Damen Ave.) But once we announced ourselves as a complete party and were seated, service was exemplary: patient, helpful, seamless. Even better, we lucked into their Tuesday night three-course prix-fixe dinner ($25), an astonishing deal, given the quality of food and range of choices.
If you love France, the smoked salmon plate ($8 à la carte) will have you booking the next flight. The fish is mild, sided with chopped egg, shallots and capers. A parmesan and mushroom orzo ($8) was heavenly, like mac and cheese for grown-ups. Oddly, the tomato soup ($5) reminded us of the canned stuff we grew up on.
The two fish entrees we ordered were among the best I've had anywhere, because of careful preparation and excellent ingredients. Seared grouper ($21 à la carte) was set atop a bed of creamy polenta and paired with spinach. Sautéed tilapia ($19) was even better, thick but tender and set on lyonnaise potatoes, along with haricots verts. The sole disappointment? The house steak. It's tough, and its mountain of pommes frites nothing special.
Desserts are top-notch. Don't miss the tarte aux pommes ($6 à la carte) or the chocolate soufflé and crème anglaise ($8), both by the book and delicious. If sweets aren't your thing, assorted cheeses ($7.50) are coupled with a refreshing mix of chopped pear and melon.
Every table, and the bar, was filled, but we had no trouble with noise.