From Crain's:
Find a spot of calm with afternoon tea
A light late-afternoon meal served on a tier, alongside a pot of tea, can be just the thing for shoppers, travelers or workers who've missed lunch. And most places serving afternoon tea are quiet, providing an elegant option for a late-in-the-day business meeting. We'd been to the city's best — Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton and Peninsula — many times, so we set out to try three others.
InterContinental Chicago
505 N. Michigan Ave.
(312) 944-4100
The Salon is a lovely street-level space with deep couches, low tables and views of passing pedestrians. Tea, served from 2 to 5 p.m., is a deal at $15.95 per person.
My friend and I were the only patrons on a Wednesday afternoon, and, unbelievably, no one noticed us or our need for service for nearly 20 minutes.
Finger sandwiches (minimally filled, on white or light bread without crusts) were freshly assembled and very good, especially the smoked salmon. My vegetarian friend appreciated the razor-thin tomato and cucumber sandwich.
Dense, flaky scones and clotted cream were genuine and addictive, causing both of us to chuck the "just a taste" plan. Eight teas were offered; we chose a chamomile and black currant, both with rich colors and pleasing flavors. A tiny fruit tart was the best of the assorted pastries.
Aside from occasional harp music, the room is quiet.
Atwood Café
1 W. Washington St.
(312) 368-1900
One for tea seemed odd to me, but the waitstaff at this restaurant in the landmark Hotel Burnham was unfazed and may have even turned on the pampering: I had a velvety booth all to myself and prompt, attentive service. Best of all was the food itself, the tastiest and most unusual "tea" I'd sampled ($20, November to January only, 2 to 4 p.m.)
I had nine teas to choose from, most with goofy names like the Oompa Loompa or the Doctor Know It All. Finger sandwiches redefined the category: prosciutto layered with honey-fig butter and crostini topped with warm brie and sliced red apples. Fresh dill was a welcome addition to a smoked salmon sandwich.
Dried-cranberry scones were buttery and studded with sugar crystals. Miniature palmiers were light and crunchy, just as the pastry should be.
With its deep colors, fanciful chandeliers and huge windows framing a bustling Loop corner, this cafe could lift moods anytime of year.
Drake Hotel
140 E. Walton Place
(312) 932-4614
Too bad the fare isn't as pleasing as the Palm Court itself, a grand room with beamed ceiling, central fountain, curvy booths and, yes, palm trees.
Tea is $24.50, served 1:30 to 5 p.m. We had a choice of 20 teas, and the herbals we ordered — ginger twist and honeybush — were served in delicate china pots.
My friend was delighted to have the egg salad sandwich to herself, and the ham and asparagus roll was creamy and light; the roast beef had too much mayonnaise. Golden fruit bread was moist, like cake, and far better than the dry scones. Pastries were nothing special.
The old-world atmosphere and friendly service left me relaxed and renewed. But the Drake should put out a far better spread.