a review of Cereality:

Cereality Cereal Bar & Cafe
100 S. Wacker Drive
(312) 506-0010

I admit to smirking when I heard about the gimmicky Cereality, an all-cereal cafe chain "where it's always Saturday morning." Then I visited the quirky quick-service restaurant, toted blends of brand-name cereals and toppings back to my desk and realized I was smiling. Cereality may be a gimmick, but it's a good one.

Some of the combinations are tooth-rotting sweet, even before you add marshmallows, malted milk balls or the other toppings waiting to be spooned on, ice-cream-sundae style. But there are plenty of choices for those who prefer to save dessert for dinner. You could actually grab breakfast here daily and be healthier for it.

For $3.89, customers can create their own cereal blends ("your way") or order pre-selected recipes ("our way"). I opted for Cereality's Life Experience, made with Life cereal, almonds, fresh bananas and honey, which had a pleasing nutty crunch. Jump Start, a mix of Special K, Cheerios, pecans, walnuts and honey, was good, too, though it would be better topped with fresh — not canned — peaches. Bran New Day ($3.99), a smoothie made with strawberries, bananas, orange juice, vanilla low-fat yogurt and Quaker Oat Bran, was a refreshing meal in a glass.

But Überpudding ($3.49) — oatmeal and low-fat yogurt — had the flavor of pancake batter, and Key West Cooler parfait ($3.49) tasted like a Starburst run amok.

Cereality opens weekdays at 5 a.m.