Lavalle and Florida - my Heart of BsAs
We all have our favorite neighborhoods, but I loved being in the Hotel Grand King, Lavalle 560, a small local hotel --very basic rooms, though they have up graded "VIP" rooms which would be better.
I got a very cheap flight/hotel package with Orbitz - LAX - 8 nights hotel with very adequate breakfast for $1000, taxes included. So I think I had one of the worst rooms in the hotel, but it was quiet, clean, nice sized well lighted bathroom, plenty of hot water, nice lobby, very helpful staff -- but with the one currency change problem as previously noted -- took the bloom off the visit. The room was cramped with bad carpet and unbecoming decor, but felt clean.
It was the location I loved. It was always alive and had fun restaurants to try all the way up Lavalle to the famous Tomo I on the corner near the Obelisk. It was in walking distance to Teatro Colon and I felt safe not only walking home from the opera, but stopping at La Estancia after the opera for late dinner (11 pm). Families with children were still arriving for dinner at that late hour. There were always people on the streets and shops open even that late.
Plus I learned the main police station was just one block away from my hotel on 400 Lavalle (note to silverspringer -that is why we saw so many police cars on that less busy block the night you got your taxi - we thought there was a problem, Just the opposite)
There was always street theater on these two pedestrian malls - music, tango, magic shows, acrobats. Everything you would want was within a few blocks and easy access to two different subway lines at Florida going cross town and Lavalle going up and down town.
Things got more elegant once you crossed Cordova street up to San Martin, and upscale visitors would find the Marriott Plaza to be a really well located hotel in my opinion to have more elegance, but still be in a very lively part of town. Santa Fe street was another street that I could walk on forever - again with well placed subway stops all along Santa Fe street ending at Retiro train station.
I do recommend the Hotel Grand King expecially for its location, but with the above cautions - rooms are drab and dated, very basic services, but BSAS was at my feet so I didn't spend much time there. And I wish I could have eaten in every restaurant all the way up and down Lavelle -from both excellent to cheap.
The Cafe Richmond around the corner from Lavalle is still grand old Buenos Aires for an afternoon tea. La Estancia was still pretty darn good for chorizo (rib steak) and at prices about 1/3 of Cabana Las Lilas which was the best - no question. But late at night, La Estancia was local. And does anyone do chimmichurri sauce better than Estancia? I piled it on - yum, yum
Other Lavalle Restaurants: I had the tourist menu at El Palacio de Senior Papas Fritas for a pretty good $9 dinner, with their wonderful "souffle" fried potatoes -- you have to try them to know what I mean. The chorizo was okay, and equal to other places so one goes here for price, not quality.
"Sie Tu" for gelato was wonderful - the Dolce de Leche Sei Tu was full of chocolate crunchies and swirls of vanilla and dolce de leche gelato.
So like the hotel, the food on Lavalle was basic but good. The splurge at the end of Lavalle at Carlos Pelligrini at Tomo I was pleasant. Met silverspringer and her husband and we all chose the daily menu for dinner - dining alone there at 7:30 pm, but by 9pm, the place was full and lively.
The menu was interesting and varied, the service really wonderful, the setting very nice, location easy to get to ....but sorry to say the food itself was just not that inspired. There was nothing in the flavors that was really raptuous.
Or maybe, it was just too refined for our BsAS meat-eating hearts. I love great restuarants and will scimp on hotels and spend lavishly on great food if I have to make a choice -- so I am not one with an under-developed palate -- lived in Europe for 4 years so by osmosis I learned what great dining can and should be.
So Tomo I was a very pleasant experience, and certainly well priced for what the daily menu offered, but it was not rave review foods. I am glad I went and would have kicked myself if I had missed it. And the later crowd was lively, and enjoying themselves very much. It was a special night in Argentina to experience it.