I will also add my high praise of Wayan Sueta. He is the best and his knowledge of Bali sights and temples can't be beat.
I also have plans to visit Bali in 2006 and will NOT be changing them. The people of Bali are wounderful and our support by our visits is very important to their economy. Yes, large hotel changes own many of the properties but the jobs provided are local and I prefer to eat at local restaurants than the hotels. Even if you use a taxi its a better deal.