It's an excellent restaurant. There is no question that the aesthetic presentation is an important part of the experience, but what makes the place work is that the base elements of the menu are relatively traditional, but the treatments are not. If you have eaten at El Bulli or some of the creative Spanish restaurants, you will have an idea of what this restaurant is about. You will pay for the experience, though - but when you peek into the kitchen and note the number of servers per table, you will see why it is so dear. Some will still shy away, and go to Charlie Trotter instead - but that would be their loss.