No one's mentioned Billy Kwong on Crown St, Surry Hills (Sydney). It's not pure tradition cantonese but the flavours have the chef's (or owner & executive chef Kylie Kwong's) touches and demands for freshness and meticulous preparation. The food there has a lot more flavour, and noticeably less oiliness, because she evidently doesn't believe in shortcuts that traditional chinese restaurant kitchens use. The kitchen is open so you can see into it. Hard to hide lacking hygiene standards.

BYOB too.