PARIS
The plane circled around CDG for a good 30-40 min. before given final clearance to land. Once we were below the gray clouds I was able to catch a glimpse of the snow-covered terrain. The landscape was soothingly calm and beautiful. It is ironic to think that the conditions that caused this serene landscape produced so much chaos and disruption.
Once the plane landed we were directed to a remote area to park and then catch a bus to the terminal. Some people were impatient with their connections and started to get up before we parked. I was thinking to myself that they will need all the luck they can get with this weather and the layout of this airport. The FA made an announcement in English in a stern tone for everybody to stay seated until we parked safely. When the door opened, a chilling draft of air rushed through the cabin. Outside it was windy with snowflakes attaching to our bodies as we disembarked. As expected, everyone ran to the bus and it became very crowded. Passing through Immigration was fairly quick (coming from within the EU certainly helped). Traveling light has its advantages and mobility is a big plus. We took the Air France coach into the city and from there it was a short hop by Metro to our hotel.
As the coach made its way into the city, a familiar feeling of joy that I have experienced so many times before returned. I feel at ease in Paris, and to me there is no other place like it in the world. My first time here was unforgettable and it was love at first sight, literally. It is hard to explain but there are places that one feels an immediate connection to it. On that first visit, Paris felt like coming back home after a long period of absence. I remember walking for hours aimlessly, without a specific destination until past midnight. It was the best walk of my life.
The beauty of Paris has been portrayed ad nauseum through countless movies, photos and publications. Adjectives used to describe it are sometimes insufficient. Allow me to render you my perspective of Paris. This is the most sensuous city on earth. Paris is the epitome of man’s creative genius. No other city allows you to appreciate beauty through so many senses. You can see, taste, smell, hear and touch it all here simultaneously. The creation of beauty is a God like quality and it is well manifested here, whether it is through the grandiose architecture or glorious cuisine. Everything here is made to appeal to your senses. Visuals take an extra sensual connotation that is not found anywhere else. I remember last November walking through the Place Madelaine and catching an ad from Fauchon on which a pair of full, luscious lips with a frosted pink finish bites into a piece of Fauchon chocolate. I though it was the most creative, appealing and effective ad I have ever seen.
I have often wondered why some people are so uptight when it comes to sexuality and categorize France as an indecent, morally decaying society because of its liberal views on sex and portrayal of it. To these people, I ask them if it is fair to categorize the US just the same way because of the blatant violence seen in the media. Some will point to the popularity in action movies, wrestling matches and caged fights to make this point. To some extent, American football is viewed by many outside the US as a violent sport. You have to admit that a bunch of guys built like a wall, tackling each other with such force that they risk serious injuries and displaying aggressive behavior is to some degree violent. One thing I learned from travel is that your point of view is not the only valid point. You have to be objective and look at things from different perspectives. Put yourself in the other person’s shoes and ask yourself why they see things the way they do. By doing that, you can become a more understanding, compassionate and less judgmental person.
Hotel Intercontinental
I was looking forward to try this property having stayed at the Le Grand previously and wanting to compare them both. The Intercontinental on rue Castiglione is not as decadent or central as the Le Grand, but it makes up for these shortcomings in service and charm. Check in was carried out efficiently and having Ambassador status assured us of an upgrade to a superior room automatically. We were assigned a room on the 4th floor with a balcony and a superb view of the Tuileries Garden and Eiffel Tower. The room was adequate with a big closet room and a very well appointed bathroom featuring Molton Brown toiletries. It was tastefully decorated in a classical style. About 20 minutes later an attendant knocked on the door to bring us the Ambassador amenities that consisted of 2 bottles of Evian, a plate of artistically arranged fruits and a box of Hediard almond chocolates that were heavenly. At the Le Grand, we had to inquire about our amenities on the 2nd day and our gifts were less substantial, featuring Evian water, 2 mandarins and a small bottle of white wine.
The property is located about 1 block from Place Vendome and within steps from Place de la Concorde. It feels a bit more secluded than the Le Grand and is conveniently located next block to Angelina’s. One afternoon I paid my obligatory visit for some pastries and when I returned to my room I devoured the famous Mont Blanc, a signature confection made of pureed chestnuts and meringue. The millefeuille was equally satisfying with a delectable cream and not overly sweet. The pastries here are much more affordable than at Fauchon or Galeries Lafayette Gourmet. As for macarons, nothing beats Laduree and when it comes to chocolates, my favorites are from Maison du Chocolat.
Paris has many layers and each visit brings a new discovery. I am fortunate to experience snow in Paris. One morning I walked to the Tuileries and I had a “Zen moment”. It was very quiet and cold. It felt relaxing to be in such an open space without any worries and preoccupied thoughts. Snow from the previous night has accumulated on top of the statues and chairs in the park and this imparts an aura of solitude and peace to the landscape. I took some pictures and then proceeded to the Palais Royal, where for the first time I admired the controversial striped columns by Daniel Buren. The juxtaposition of the old and new creates a sharp and interesting contrast, but I felt a stronger inclination to venture by the arcades housing different shops. Afterwards, it was on to the Square Igor-Stravinsky to visit its whimsical fountain. Although the fountain was inoperative, I enjoyed looking at the colorful and humorous sculptures around.
The last day was dedicated to Montmartre and the Sacre Coeur as a compromise with my sister since she has not been here on her last visit. We took the metro and got off at the Abbesse metro, where you find one of the two remaining Art Nouveau metro entrances. The other one is Port Dauphine. As expected, the walk from here to Sacre Coeur was exhausting due to the ascension through many stairs, but it is the picturesque way to do it. The base of the church allows for a magnificent view of Paris at your feet. However, because of flurries coming down with incremental force, there was not much of a view. We sought refuge in a nearby local restaurant and it is here that I had a memorable meal for about 12 Euros. It started with a fish terrine that was absolutely fresh followed by perfectly cooked gigot d’agneau with a fade pinkish center and accompanied by a tasty side dish of crusty, perfectly seasoned potatoes. As a finale, I enjoyed a cheese plate with crusty bread and creamy butter. Not bad for a 3 course meal at this price.
Our AF flight will depart at 1020A so we called it for the night to get a good night sleep. I don’t know why AF schedules this flight so early while most US carriers depart at around 1p. My last couple of flights to SFO have left from 2C, so I guess the same applies for other US bound flights. Some of the AF coach drivers do not know this if you ask them. Traffic was light on the way to the airport and it looked like a clear day.
Check-in at CDG is dreadful. This is a good place to have your patience tested so arrive at least 2 ˝ - 3 hours before departure. Even at the Premiere and Affaires line the pace is painfully slow. After a good 25 minutes in line, we were greeted by a cheerful agent who processed us. Five minutes later she is still typing (bad sign) and concedes defeat (I feel a drop of sweat running through my forehead). She advised us that because this is an electronic award ticket issued by NW, she is having problem issuing one of the tickets (I think this defeats the whole purpose of an electronic tkt.
) You see, when AF issues a boarding card, it is always accompanied by an attached coupon that the gate agent dutifully retrieves. This is their rules and how they operate, so I just go along with it. Thank God I had enough foresight to arrive with plenty of time. As Martha says, “it’s a good thing”. The agent graciously escorted us to a ticket center located a couple of meters down the terminal and left us in her colleague’s capable hands. She proceeds to type some more on her keyboard. (tap ,tap, tap..merde, tap, tap) After a couple of minutes, she placed a call to the help desk center and asked in French who dealt with this record and stating that she absolutely cannot issue a coupon because of the previous agent’s involvement. She glances at me and I throw a shy smile back. She then disappears into another room in the back and when she returns she advised us to go directly to the gate and not worry about it. She will call the gate people and alert them that a couponless passenger in J will show up and in their infinite mercy they will allow the customer to go through and make a rare exception (not exactly in those words but you know what I mean).
Going thru Immigration was quick and security was conducted in a dignified way. The gate area offers a deplorable selection of duty free items. For a country associated with luxury goods and fine living, the duty free shops found at CDG are a disgrace. Shops are small and limited in their offerings and variety. Upon entering the lounge, we were warmly greeted by the attendant and fought our way to the refreshment bar. The room was packed. I did not see much in terms of food, only some good Bretonnes cookies, madeleines and sweet pastries. I was delighted by the exotic selection of guava, passionfruit and apricot juices. After a quick visit it was time to board our plane.
My AF inflight experience coming up………