Part 3 of Report
Did I mention that the rule on the bus is to rotate seats each day. You start at whatever number and then add one. On the bus door (inside) is a chart to show you where the seats are, as they are not in order. Over the 15 days you sit on the right, left, front, back, middle, etc. and once everyone is on then you can also move to any vacant seat, BUT you must resume the same rotation the next day as if you were in the seat of the system.
Now we are off to Uluru. We get a 7:15 start again (packing, dressing, getting ready, brekie, toi, and to the bus!). Today we drive through the desert plains and into the Territories...the "real outback". The fences are less evident. Road kill now includes sheep, cattle and CAMELS. Yes, camels are a big group of Australian residents in the Territories! They were important to the development of the Territories and when they were less useful, they became part of the wildlife, road kill and menu! Yes, I...the won't try anything had camel...a small piece. We are now seeing walk horses (brumbys?) and donkeys. It is a hard life for man, animals and plants. Fires burn everwhere. Started by the Australian Gov't, the Abros, and nature. It is part of the cycle of regrowth. The Gov't does it to control wildfires (partially), the Abros because they are nomads. The eat the berries, use the bark, harvest the tubers, use the leaves and then burn down the brush and move on. When they come back some day "all the shelves are stocked again". Nature, well nature works the same game that the Abros do.
We start to approach Uluru (Aryes Rock to some). We drive to Sails of Desert and drop off the luggage. Then we go back out to see the sunset on Uluru. Sunset and sunrise are two events, somewhat different that are celebrated by tourists. Rightly so. The rock is large but only somewhat impressive, to someone from the West Coast of Americal it is a yawn. The color change generated by the sun is something else. Really a highlight (no pun intended). The viewing area are one for cars and one for buses. The tour buses have a designated area. We had snacks and wine. Forget anything except the sunset impact on Uluru!
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, home of the Anangu. The Abroginals are made up of the Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara people. The Australian Department of Environment and Heritage (EH) oversee this National Park. A fee of A$25 per person is charged to visitors. The EH allows visitors to climb Uluru (Ayres Rock). A rope has been installed with supports to aid people in that activity. Somedays it is close because of weather. On our arrival it was open and several people were climbing (refer to pictures, later). The following day the two people on our tour that wanted to climb, could not as the path was closed. The abroginals, request that as "guests" on Anangu land that you choose to respect their law and culture by not climbing. We are told by our tour guide that Europeans and Japanese tend to climb. Americans, Kiwis and Assie, tend not to. Obviously, this is a generalization. There are walks around Uluru where viewing, and in most cases (not all) photography is allowed. This photo ban was totally ignored by the Japanese group before us (the fault of a tip seeking tour director?), but respected by our group. Uluru is a 4 1/2 drive from Alice Springs or a 40 minute flight. Ayers Rock is 348 meters high and 9.4kms in circumference. It is estimated that 6km of rock is buried under the earth.
There are several hotels in a single chain at Uluru. Each is a different price category. From Sails, where we stayed (from A$424 per night), to Ayers Rock campground (sites A$13.50-37)...and all inbetween.
A new area, previously constructed and burned down is a tent development, Longitude 131 degree, minimum 2 nights). The tents come with a butler and rent from A$1800 per night. www. voyages.com.au Did I mention this is a very expensive trip! We are now 35 on the bus.
Oh, did I mention there was a contest to see who would see Uluru first as we approached the area. Well there is a Mt. Connors that looks more like Uluru than Ayers Rock does in the post cards! We are not fed this night! We were warned that dinner was on our own. After sunset, luggage gathering and "unpacking" not a lot of time was left. Reservations are almost required, as there are few employees for the number of tourists. Feature no place to live, no place to socialize, etc and low wages! Prices are very high.
Ayers Rock Resort (Yolara) has Sails in the Desert, Desert Gardens, Emu Walk, the Lost Camel and Outback pioneer as choices for lodging. A free shuttle bus at the Resort will take you around, including the shopping area. Handy for meals at different buildings.
Another great breakfast (A$34, included in our tour package). sets us off on optional tours today. Pancakes were included. The eggs were runny and under cooked. Optional tours today. Grab ... with a European Harley driver is the most popular with the ladies. The Camel ride (two tourist per animal, with all tied together) is also quite popular (Leslie's choice-refer to picture later offered). Me, I signed up for the critter show (snakes and spiders) but backed away and took a shower and a snooze instead. The Liru Walk, into the Abro lands is cancelled. Boo, this was a real must do. The Abros can choose when and when not to do their tours. Money is not the main driver!
In the afternoon, we all get together again and go to the Olgas (Kata tjuta). We hike into Walpa Gorge. The hike is on uneven ground (generally the way all the rest will be), relative steep. Time alloted to to get there and get back to the bus. Most of the pace was quite "move along".
The stay at Sails is for 2 nights! Another good sleep (number 2?). Today we again get our choice of tours.
Tonight we attend the "Sounds of Silence Dinner". (Note to USA tourists on this tour, the Sounds of Firelight (A$130pp) is limited to 10 couples and is the best option for dinner, but must be booked in advance of leaving the US). The Silence dinner is attended by most of the people staying at Yalara on some night (A$139pp). Predinner drinks are in sight of Uluru. Then we move off to another area for dinner. It is so dark that it is impossible to really see what your eating. Tonight Crockadile was added to my dining history. It was in the Ceasar salad. Tasted a bit like swordfish, but dry, to me. The meal, service and program was not up to the price we would have paid if not part of the tour. Probably recommend it anyway. Not really a lot to choose from. There is also a Sunrise Breakfast available for A$99pp (not included in our package).
Did I mention that baked 1/2 tomato is also part of almost every breakfast?
Today it is off to Kings Canyon. My notes start getting a bit sketchy as I am back in the from of the bus doing animal spotting (this is a favorite of Leslie and I). We drive thru Mt Conner mesa, Watarrka National Park and into Kings Canyon. Hear we get a choice of two walks. One with the fit tour director who you can't understand or one with the overweight driver who is very interesting. We went with the driver. Finely a stay where we get in early. I head off to George Gill's Bar two blocks away while Leslie "unpacks". Eventually, Bill and Lyle come over. They hoist a few, I nurse one. Lots of dinner choices, but they really push Carmichael's at the hotel. It was okay, nothing special. Oh, yes another chance to have roo. Wish they would stop saying "here skippy, skippy" when they see one. I ate it but cried as I did. Kings Canyon Resort was a nice stop and stay (Laundry, mini-market, sunset viewing platform). For those caravaning, they have a caravan area as part of the resort. There is power, a general store, medical services, and fuel.
Today we head for Alice Springs. We stop at Hermannsburg (vacant German town with some Aboriginal residents in the area for lunch). Hermannsburg is the first Abroginal Mission in the NT. Established by the Lutheran Church in 1877 on the traditional lands of the Western Aranda people. Restoration of the building is at a standstill and this mission will eventually disappear if something is not done.
The McDonalds (mountain range!) are a highlight.
Angkerle is 41kms from Alice Springs (Stanley Chasm, named after the first school teacher in Alice Springs) and Simpson Gap our the two walks available. I do the former but not the latter. My foot problem is starting to catch up with me and I must start choosing where to use what I have left. Leslie does both. "Starting to us our fly netting over our heads. Again, it is race to the end and then turn around and get on the bus to move on. A food kiosk is available. The walks here offer sightings of rock wallaby. Note they are very small. The pictures are marginal, may or may be included later.
Our stay is at Alice Springs Resort (located on the banks of the Todd River-no water. Lots of dining options tonight. We arrive early. Bar does not open until 6pm!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry, they opened it for me, and most of the rest of the bus came shortly thereafter. What is in their thinking? The Resort has bug screens...yes the flies are catching up with us. They have laundry, refrig., hair dryer, and AC (the weather is starting to warm up some).
Alice Springs (The Alice) has lots to see and do, but our schedule limited the choices. There is an Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre (free), Adelaide House Museum A$4), Alice Springs Cultural Precinct (A$9), Alice Springs Desert Park (A$18)-one of our options, Alice Springs RSL Club and War Museum (donation), Alice Springs School of the Air (A$4), Alice Springs Telegraph Station (A$7) for a start. The Alice Wanderer is a bus service to these and other places (A$35). Other attractions include Sounds of Starlight Theatre, Botanic Gardens, Central Australian Aviation Museum, Frontier Camel Farm, Lightning Ridge Opal Mines, Museum of Central Australia (A$9), National Pioneer Women's Hall of Fame, National Road Transport Hall of Fame, and on and on. Two other places were options for us. The Royal Flying Doctor Service and the full day Palm Valley Experience (4wd) which we selected. Included a nice tour of the area and some really bump ride into the Palm Valley to see the unique Palms. It also featured lunch back at Hermmansburg and the Art Gallery Tour. (A$149).
Dining tonight includes the Overlanders Steakhouse's Drovers Blowout" meal (
www.overlanders.com.au). The first course was Zuchini & Bacon soup on Damper. Then a plate cosistinig of Crocodile vol Au Vent, Kangaroo Fillet with wine and mushroom sauce, Emu Medallion and finaloly CAmel Scotch Fillet with plum sauce. Tried the Emu, Skippy, Crock and Camel. Nothing stood out much, except the horrible service and the lousy main (choice of rump steak, cheese crepes or chilli chicken shaslicks...steak was leather)!! For desert was the famous Pavlova (sugary egg whites or apple pie. We were told the owner was away. Well, I would not recommend this place to anyone. The entertainment was first rate. Maybe go in, have a drink, ask if the owner is in. If he is, ask to speak with him. Inquire as to the service and quailty of meal you can expect. If he does not give you a $$$ back deal, then skip it. Have another drink and enjoy the singer.
Dinner is on your own tonight. I cannot even remember what we did!
Note we were not in Alice Spring. It was a walk across the bridge. The tour director gave us all kinds of where not to go, so we stayed. Mainly it was to travel in groups and stay out of the river bed, when some of the Aboriginals drink all day and night. Alice is a real city with real stores. Not to be seen again until Darwin.
Next is off to Tennant Creek. For now it is good night. I will try to do more tomorrow, for those still with me.