At home I typically eat around 11:30 each morning and then dinner about 5:30. We just got back from our trip to Italy and after our 2nd day learned to change our eating habits to include breakfast, lunch at about 1-2 and then dinner about 8-9 (and that was arriving early).
The advice I followed was to never eat anywhere facing any major attraction (I am sure there are exceptions), and try out the Trastevere area for dinners. All of the food we ate was amazing! But everything I read about the dinners being long and drawn out were true. A bit of a change for us here in NA where the goal is to turn the table over to seat more diners.