The best way to get to Kandy (or the surrounding area), IMO, has got to be the train. I always find that a great way to get a feel for a country, and far more comfortable (albeit a little slower) than than the drive. We enjoyed Sri Lanka very much a couple of years ago, and I'm hoping to be back there in the not too distant future. But I agree that it isn't the place for "big sight, quick fix" tourism if that's what you are looking for).