A view of the saltwater pond from Auberge Yusura

Every year, we try to organize a four-generation family trip (on Mrs. KI-NRT’s side), where everyone can enjoy each other’s company while visiting a destination that offers something for all ages - from grade school kids to mobility-limited elders. For this year’s outing, we chose the Ise area of Mie Prefecture, on the eastern side of the massive Kii Peninsula (shared by Mie, Wakayama, and Nara). There’s plenty to do in the area, including Toba (a seaside resort town), the excellent Toba Aquarium, Mikimoto Pearl Island, and Ise Jingu Shrine.

Mikimoto Pearl Island, connected to Toba by a bridge, is both a museum and the birthplace of cultured pearls - Kokichi Mikimoto successfully cultivated pearls here in 1893. The island also has a restaurant and offers hourly demonstrations by Ama (female free divers), who have a long tradition of harvesting seafood. Mikimoto’s flagship store is located here as well, and we ended up buying pearl jewelry for all the women and girls in our group as a lasting keepsake.


View of a dry rock garden and a pond from Auberge Yusura

Ise Jingu’s inner shrine (Naiku) dates back over 2,000 years and is Japan’s most sacred Shinto site, enshrining Amaterasu Omikami (the Sun Goddess). The approach to the shrine, known as Okage Yokocho, is lined with beautifully preserved traditional buildings housing shops and restaurants - some of which have served pilgrims for centuries.

Many of these attractions are within 20 minutes of Auberge Yusura, which was a major reason we chose this ryokan. We considered returning to Kisara Bettei Toki, which we enjoyed for its ocean views, but Auberge Yusura had exactly five rooms - perfect for our group - allowing us to effectively book out the entire property for our two-night stay. Guest reviews also leaned more positively toward Yusura, especially for its service and cuisine, which further tipped the scales.


Auberge Yusura property grounds

One note on location: if you’re thinking about combining this stay with other major destinations around the Kii Peninsula, you’ll need a car. The peninsula is enormous, and public transportation is extremely limited outside the coastal routes. There are no expressways, either. Destinations like Yoshino, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Nachi Falls, Kumano Hongu Taisha (all around 2.5 hours), Koyasan (3.5 hours), and Shirahama (4 hours) are doable but require planning, often with overnight stays. Amanemu is a much easier add-on at about 45 minutes away, while Sanso Amanosato (about 3 hours) can work if paired with a visit to Koyasan.


Common area

Auberge Yusura opened in 2018 and has a clean, modern aesthetic. All five accommodations are standalone villas with no shared walls, facing a small saltwater pond. The grounds aren’t expansive, but they’re beautifully landscaped. The main building houses a small lounge and the dining area - simple and functional. Two villas sit to the left of the main building, and three to the right.


One of the rooms with the pathway passing right in front of it

While the detached layout is great for seclusion, privacy isn’t perfect. There’s a walking path on the far side of the pond, and although we only saw one person during our stay, you’ll probably want to keep that in mind if you have the curtains open at night. For the three villas on the right side, the pathway runs between the pond and the rooms, which further reduces privacy. Thankfully, the open-air onsen baths are located behind the villas, surrounded by gardens and high walls that ensure full seclusion.


Tochi villa, 65m²


Tochi villa, 65m²

The two villas on the left side don’t have this issue - the pathway runs behind them, making them much more private. For that reason, I’d recommend Keyaki and Kaede if privacy is a priority. Among the three villas on the right, Tochi is the end unit, but even there, the path continues beyond it toward a garden, so occasional foot traffic is still possible.


Tochi villa, 65m²


Tochi villa, 65m²

The rooms themselves are not true suites - they’re open-plan, which isn’t our preference. All rooms except Keyaki are 65 square meters, which is adequate but can feel a bit tight for families. Keyaki is larger at 80 square meters and offers the most privacy, though the layout is similar enough that it doesn’t feel dramatically different from the others.


Keyaki villa, 80m². Pathway to the private onsen


Keyaki villa, 80m² - private open-air onsen

Each room has an open-air onsen bath, but the property does not have its own natural hot spring source. Instead, water is transported from Sakakibara Onsen in Tsu (about 45 minutes away), which is known for its silky texture. While it’s not continuously flowing, this setup is fairly common. Guests are even advised not to rinse off after bathing due to the spring water’s positive impact on one’s skin. There are no additional baths on the property - no communal or private reservable options.


Dining area

Meals are served in the main building, with the dining space divided by shoji screens depending on the number of parties. It offers a reasonable level of privacy, though some noise does carry. Since we had the entire ryokan to ourselves, they arranged a single dining area for our group.

The cuisine is traditional kaiseki, led by a head chef who trained at Kyoto’s renowned Kitcho. We came in with high expectations, but while the food was good, it didn’t quite reach the level we anticipated. Nothing was bad, but several dishes felt overly simple or lacked creativity. For example, the clam “tamajime” (clams with softly set egg and vegetables) didn’t feel particularly refined, and the Momotori oysters in miso hot pot didn’t land for me - though I admit I generally prefer oysters raw.


Sashimi: * Chutoro (Medium-fatty Tuna), Ishidai (Striped Beakfish), Akagai (Ark Shell) & Squid with salted mullet roe on top


Abalone steak, Abalone liver, Spring cabbage, Garlic sprouts, Red onions flavored with lemon.

The biggest letdown was the Matsusaka beef. As one of Japan’s “big three” wagyu (alongside Kobe and Omi), it’s known for exceptional marbling and richness. Unfortunately, the cut we were served didn’t live up to that reputation - and having had excellent Matsusaka beef before, this was noticeable. I also would have preferred a different cut (chateaubriand or sirloin rather than filet). Breakfast was satisfying but similarly not standout.

That said, it’s possible we’re judging a bit harshly after years of dining at top-tier ryokan and restaurants throughout Japan.


Breakfast

Where Auberge Yusura truly excelled was service. Led by the gracious and personable proprietress, the team delivered warm, attentive, and highly professional hospitality throughout our stay. They were especially wonderful with the children in our group and went out of their way to accommodate requests from guests of all ages. While having the property to ourselves likely helped, their genuine warmth and attentiveness felt consistent enough that I doubt the experience would change much with other guests present.

One small note: English proficiency among staff is limited, and they don’t often host international guests - which is somewhat surprising given the quality of the property and its location.


Auberge Yusura property grounds at night

We’ve already booked a return visit with the same group. Between the location, the manageable room count that allows for a full buyout, and the overall experience, it’s a setup that’s hard to beat - and for us, that’s pretty much priceless.