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May 1, 2026 | 2:30 pm

#138

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Chef, cookbook author and KCRW Good Food host Evan Kleinman:

Bagels of Today

Quote:

To me, a bagel is a smallish, round (saying this because someone might make a square one in some kind of weird mold), savory bread with a chewy, somewhat dense, and resistant texture. It’s the reason I try to avoid a bagel with no discernible hole in the middle. The hole allows the crumb of the bagel to cook more evenly to the proper texture. I remember the first time I had a soft-ish bagel. I spit it out, thinking something was wrong. I walked back into the bagel shop and asked what had changed. Turns out they had stopped boiling their bagels before baking them. I said, “You should call them rolls,” and walked out.

In her recent article for The New York Times,“Big Money is Coming for Bagels,” Julia Moskin says, “Not all the offerings are strictly traditional, but the tangy interiors, chewy-crisp crusts and plentiful toppings are a major improvement on the puffy, pale bagels that have long ruled American strip malls.” Yeah, those pale, too soft bagel simulacrums have had their day.

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