This is easy: there isn't one. But there are a few that soar high above the rest, and my choice is the Normandie, on the top floor of the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok. (OK, the Pres Catalan and the Troisgros boys might fidget about this, but tough noogies.)

The Normandie is in a beautiful, dignified room overlooking the river; it provided service that anticipated our every wish without being intrusive, an enviable wine list, food that's sublime, and an environment that is comforting and relaxing.

Anecdote: after a leisurely and magnificent appetizer and main course (the noix de ris de veau was by far the best I've had, and the accompanying Meursault was heavenly), my [then-] wife could only gape at the dessert trolley, trying to decide among 8 or 10 gorgeous items. The waiter let her look for a few moments, then asked if she would enjoy having a small taste of each.

A perfect meal in every respect.