View from the Oyama Renge premium suite, 100m²
Our original New Year’s plan was to spend two nights visiting relatives in Tokyo. When those arrangements unexpectedly fell through, we made a quick pivot and combined a stay at Arima Onsen’s Takayamaso Hanano with a night in Kyoto at Hiiragiya. Availability on January 1st and 2nd aligned perfectly, and the trip to Hiiragiya (she did not join us in Arima Onsen) also gave Mrs. KI-NRT’s mother a chance to see her grandchildren. It helped that both places were local to us, and Arima Onsen is a mere 30 minutes by car from our Japan home. Naturally, prices at both properties were about 30% higher than during shoulder season, though the menus reflected the festive season with special celebratory dishes. We had initially hoped to stay at Hatago or Arima Onsen Kinzan, but both were fully booked - as was Arimasansoh Goshobessho, where we had our eye on the new treehouse villa featuring an open-air
kinsen (gold) bath on the deck. That said, Takayamaso Hanano’s recently rebuilt Oyama Renge suite, unveiled in January 2025 and equipped with both the gold and silver onsen baths, looked enticing.
Lounge and bar
Hallway to 1F rooms
I’ve touched on Arima Onsen before in my Nakanobo Zuien review, but here’s a recap. Arima is Japan’s oldest recorded hot spring, mentioned in
Nihon Shoki, the nation’s second-oldest chronicle. Sei Shōnagon, in
The Pillow Book (written in year 1002), named it among Japan’s three finest springs—alongside Tamatsukuri Onsen in Shimane and Sakakibara Onsen in Mie. By the Edo period, Arima was firmly established as Japan’s most prestigious hot spring, frequented by emperors, nobles, and samurai alike. Today, it’s grouped with Kusatsu and Gero as part of the “big three” onsen. Its mineral-rich waters - loaded with iron, salt, and metaboric acid - are prized for their therapeutic benefits.
As anyone who knows Japan will attest, the Japanese love ranking things. And while Arima’s
kinsen in particular deserves its reputation, purists might quibble that only a handful of facilities draw water directly from the source, with no recirculation. According to my own digging (and from conversations with a few experts), only Hashinoya Bekkan Ransui, Hotel Hanakoyado, Tocen Goshoboh, and its sister property Arimasansoh Gosho Bessho enjoy this distinction. Tocen Goshoboh, notably, has one of the seven onsen sources on-site. None are truly “luxury” by this forum’s standards - except perhaps Gosho Bessho, which recently underwent a renovation. Tocen Goshoboh’s top villa-style suite, remodeled in April 2025 and measuring 125m², also looks worth exploring in the future.
Oyama Renge premium suite's Kinsen (gold) and Ginsen (silver) onsen baths
Like most ryokans in Arima, Takayamaso Hanano’s baths aren’t fed directly from the source. Water is delivered by truck, filtered, and temperature-controlled before reaching the tubs. The
kinsen (golden spring), a sodium chloride source drawn from Gokuraku Spring, emerges at just 19°C and must be heated on-site, while the
ginsen (silver spring) flows at 69°C and requires cooling. Thankfully, no cold tap water is added to the ginsen, suggesting Hanano uses a non-diluting cooling method to preserve the spring’s purity.
Oyama Renge premium suite, 100m²
Oyama Renge premium suite, 100m²
Established in 1956 as a five-room inn, Hanano was rebuilt and reopened in July 1993 and remains a family-run property to this day. Despite its age, it feels well cared for - tasteful, serene, and finished in warm beige tones that create an airy atmosphere. The chairman appears to have stepped back from daily operations, which is now led by his capable daughter, though his influence is visible in the property’s refined décor: exquisite
Ikebana and
Kusamono arrangements crafted by artisans across Japan. Hanano lacks a traditional garden due to its compact site, but there’s a cozy lounge, a restaurant, and a modest
daiyokujō (communal bath) area. That’s perfectly fine - Arima itself is a delightful destination for leisurely walks, browsing local shops, and sampling regional treats like carbonated onsen rice crackers. The only potential challenge is the entrance: 20 stone steps lead up to the lobby, which could be tricky for anyone with limited mobility.
Oyama Renge premium suite, 100m² - Japanese Tatami room
Panorama view of Arima Onsen from Oyama Renge premium suite, 100m²
Hanano offers a range of accommodations for different budgets. The entry-level rooms are simple, with futon bedding laid out after dinner, while the top-tier suites approach true luxury. The flagship 100m² Oyama Renge Suite, revamped in 2025, features both
kinsen and
ginsen baths and a panoramic view over the town. Its fresh, modern interpretation of Japanese aesthetics surpasses what some high-end ryokans attempt. From the balcony, I could spot three of Arima’s seven hot spring sources and enjoyed watching tourists meander through the streets below. Bathing with the sliding glass window open brought a true open-air sensation.
LEFT: Clear dashi soup with Cod Milt Shinjo (savory cake), carrot, daikon radish, yuba (tofu skin) and uguisu-na (young greens of Mizuna, a Japanese mustard spinach). RIGHT: Pressed young red sea bream sushi
Kohada kinuta-maki: Gizzard Shad (a fish), egg, carrots and green beans wrapped in daikon radish with vinegared lotus roots, ostrich fern, kingyoso (dragon flowers), brussels sprouts and wasabi jelly
Hanano’s stay plans are flexible - room-only, breakfast-only, or half-board - and dinner options range from standard to upgraded kaiseki. Various Kobe beef enhancements can be added, from shabu-shabu and filet steak to a decadent beef-and-lobster course or even Kobe beef chateaubriand. The upgrade for the latter adds about ¥40,000 for two people, which seems reasonable given the quality of A5‑grade Kobe beef. Since I’d recently overindulged in steak and the weather was bitterly cold, I chose the shabu-shabu this time. Meals here exceeded expectations: thoughtfully prepared, beautifully plated, and distinct from the typical ryokan fare. We were especially taken by the cold milt
shinjo (savory fish cake) served in a suimono (clear broth) - a surprising and skillful twist, as
shinjo is usually made with shrimp or crab.
Kobe beef loin shabu shabu (hot pot)
Another standout was the
kuwai manjū with
sobagara ankake and wasabi.
Kuwai is a Japanese aquatic plant (a cultivar of
Sagittaria trifolia) whose edible tuber was wrapped here in a soft, steamed manju bun. The dish was topped with
ankake, a glossy kudzu-thickened dashi sauce mixed with
sobagara (buckwheat husks). It’s a humble but deeply traditional creation - one of those understated kaiseki moments that remind you how complex Japanese haute cuisine can be. It’s far more layered than the standard lineup of sushi, tempura, or tonkatsu, many of which trace their roots to foreign influences.
Breakfast at Takayamaso Hanano
Breakfast was a more restrained affair - thankfully so after the indulgent dinner - but still festive. It featured elements of
osechi ryōri (the New Year’s spread) such as
ozōni, the mochi soup made in Kansai with a white miso base. The local
koshihikari rice from Sanda was so fragrant and fluffy that even someone usually carb-conscious like myself couldn’t resist a second bowl. Service-wise, our attendant - a polite, reserved young woman - handled both dinner and breakfast. She answered questions plainly but without elaboration; I later learned she’s a longtime part-time staff member who assists mainly on weekends and during peak seasons, which explains her matter-of-fact manner.
The owning family, by contrast, were fully engaged. The daughter, clearly in charge, was ever attentive and efficient, with a warmth that made her presence felt. Her younger brother, while earnest, seemed less at ease in guest interactions. Though tradition often dictates that the eldest son inherits the reins, I have a feeling this family might make an exception – it’s obvious who’s best suited to keep Hanano’s spirit alive.
View of Arima Onsen (including one of the hot spring sources) from our Oyama Renge premium suite at night
We went to Takayamaso Hanano with modest expectations, given its mixed reviews, and simply hoped for a peaceful New Year in a spacious suite with a private bath and good food. The ryokan delivered exactly that - and then some. In a place where room choice makes all the difference, Hanano ensured our stay was quiet, comfortable, and memorable.