I setup this itinerary to cover a few days in Tokyo later this month. The design and purpose is for someone who has extensive experience visiting Tokyo, seen all the usual "sights" and is looking for something non-touristy/away from crowds, unique and a little different. Not included is a side-trip in the evening to see the holiday lights or illumination - still debating on which location to choose for that.
We have a lunch booked at Sushi Taichi Ginza, no other dining plans yet, but we're debating the AYCE king crab at one of the outlying Kanizanmai, likely kichijoji. Or maybe Tsukiji Kani Matsuri because the other half prefers hairy crab.
Also on the list - buying custom dashi blended at Dashi Okume. And looking for a 36cm Japanese made hand hammered carbon steel Yamada Kogyo-sho made wok. Hopefully boxed to carry home easily as a carry-on item. I don't think Tokyu Hands has the larger size woks, so need to find someplace still open on 12/26 late afternoon, or 12/29 morning to get it.
Open to suggestions or substitutions
Day 1: Friday, Dec 26 — The Hidden Island & River Walk
A quiet, historical walk in the shadow of skyscrapers.
- 1:30 PM: The Kachidoki Bridge Crossing
- Transit: Take the train to Yurakucho or Shimbashi and walk towards the river, or taxi directly to the bridge.
- Activity: Walk across this historic bridge. It offers one of the few wide, open-sky views of the Tokyo Bay area.
- 2:00 PM: Tsukuda Island (Tsukudajima)
- The Spot: A preserved 17th-century fishing village that survived the war and earthquakes.
- See:
- Sumiyoshi Shrine: The guardian shrine for fishermen and ferrymen.
- The Red Torii Gate: Located unusually right on the water's edge.
- The Narrow Alleys: Wander the tiny backstreets where potted plants and old wooden houses create a time-slip atmosphere.
- 4:00 PM: Sumida River Terrace
- Activity: Walk along the paved river embankments. This is a popular spot for locals to jog and walk dogs, offering a relaxing sunset view of the skyline.
Day 2: Saturday, Dec 27 — The Manual Ferry & Bonsai Masters
Critical Timing: Saturday is essential for the winter ferry schedule.
- 9:00 AM: Depart Shinagawa
- Transit: JR Yamanote Line to Nippori, transfer to Keisei Line to Shibamata.
- 10:00 AM: Shibamata Taishakuten Temple
- Activity: Explore the wood-carved temple that is the heart of this retro town.
- Must See: Suikeien Garden. A stunning strolling garden with a covered wooden corridor. (Note: This is the last day to view it before the New Year closure).
- 11:00 AM: Yagiri-no-Watashi (Manual Ferry Crossing)
- Action: Walk behind the temple to the riverbank.
- The Ride: Board the traditional wooden boat. It is rowed by hand (no engine) across the Edo River to the Chiba side. This is the only surviving Edo-style ferry in Tokyo.
- Schedule: In winter, it only operates on weekends/holidays (approx. 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM). Since today is Saturday, it will be running.
- Logistics: Take the ride across (200 yen). You can explore the Chiba bank briefly and take the boat back (easiest for transit), or if you feel adventurous, walk from the Chiba side to Matsudo station (long walk). Recommendation: Round trip by boat.
- 1:00 PM: Transit to Edogawa
- Transit: Take the bus from Shibamata to Koiwa Station, then transfer to the bus for the bonsai museum.
- 2:00 PM: Shunka-en Bonsai Museum
- Activity: Visit the private dojo of Master Kunio Kobayashi. Unlike a sterile museum, this is a living workshop where you can walk through the garden and see 1,000-year-old trees up close, often with apprentices working nearby.
Day 3: Sunday, Dec 28 — The "Grandma's Harajuku" & Garden Onsen
Replacing Jindaiji with a deep local culture walk and a stunning garden onsen.
- 9:00 AM: Depart Shinagawa
- Transit: JR Yamanote Line to Sugamo (approx. 25 mins direct).
- 09:30 AM: Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street
- Why here: Known as "Grandma's Harajuku," this is one of the most friendly, local streets in Tokyo.
- Activity: Visit Kogan-ji Temple (Togenuki Jizo) to wash the "healing statue." It is believed to cure ailments.
- Stroll: The street will be bustling with locals buying New Year's preparations. Look for the famous "red underwear" shops (symbolizing health/luck) and traditional senbei cracker stores.
- 11:30 AM: Transit to Onsen
- Transit: Take the Toei Mita Line from Sugamo Station to Shimura-sakaue Station (12 mins). Walk 8 mins to the onsen.
- 12:30 PM: Saya no Yudokoro (Maenohara Onsen)
- The Spot: This is an authentic onsen built on the grounds of a Showa-era secluded mansion.
- The Vibe: You are soaking in natural hot spring water while looking out at a meticulously maintained Japanese moss garden. It feels like a high-end ryokan in Kyoto, but it's a public facility in North Tokyo.
- Activity: Enjoy the open-air baths (rotenburo) and the steam sauna. They also have an excellent restaurant inside overlooking the garden for lunch.
- Status: OPEN Dec 28 (Year-end hours/rates apply).
- Late Afternoon: Return to Shinagawa via Toei Mita Line to Mita, transfer to JR Yamanote.