Nakanobo Zuien garden

Our home in Japan is about 30 minutes from Arima Onsen, but it had been years since we last visited. While I’ve never been particularly fond of Arima Onsen or its town, a recent day trip there reignited my interest in this historic hot spring destination. So, I decided to treat Mrs. KI-NRT and her mother to an overnight stay.

Arima Onsen, dating back to mythological times, is considered one of Japan’s top three hot spring towns, alongside Gero and Kusatsu. It's famous for its therapeutic waters and deep cultural roots. The onsen is mentioned in the Nihon Shoki (completed in 720 A.D.), which chronicles Japan’s history, and Emperor Jomei’s visit to the springs in 631 is one of its earliest recorded accounts. Over the centuries, it became a favorite of historical figures like Shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who visited regularly in the 16th century.


Nakanobo Zuien reception area

One of the defining features of Arima Onsen is its Kinsen (golden spring), a muddy onsen water with high iron and salt content (higher than seawater). It starts out transparent when it first emerges, but soon oxidizes upon contact with air, taking on a distinctive reddish-brown hue. The iron helps to lock in body heat, providing excellent warming and moisturizing effects, and is believed to have antibacterial properties.


Nakanobo Zuien reception area

In contrast, the Ginsen (silver spring) is a colorless, transparent spring known for its gentle feel. It includes two types of clear waters: the carbonated spring, which promotes blood circulation, and the radon spring, believed to enhance the body’s natural healing power. The carbonated spring can also be consumed, stimulating the stomach and increasing appetite.


Nakanobo Zuien reception area

After an underwhelming stay at Arimasanso Gosho Bessho during COVID, we were eager to try a different luxury option. The big four in Arima Onsen are Gosho Bessho, Nakanobo Zuien, Hatago, and Arima Onsen Kinzan. With the latter two fully booked on our desired date, we opted for Nakanobo Zuien - a place we visited decades ago.

One of Nakanobo Zuien’s main advantages is its location. Situated in the heart of town, it’s adjacent to the main street, putting all the shops, restaurants, cafes, food stalls, temples, and museums right at your doorstep. While its competitors are not far away, this level of convenience cannot be overstated.


Nakanobo Zuien - Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) "Wako", 119mē


Nakanobo Zuien - Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) "Wako", 119mē

This 47-room, adults-only ryokan (guests must be at least 13) has a rich history, originally founded in 1868 as Nakanobo Bo. Now managed by the same company that owns the larger Arima Grand Hotel, Nakanobo Zuien is more of a hybrid ryokan than a traditional one. With its expansive layout, carpeted floors, and the fact that shoes stay on until you reach your room, it feels more hotel-like than the typical ryokan. The property also includes a public cafe, a restaurant, and a large gift shop featuring high-end local items.

The main draw here is the rooms - specifically, the ones with both Kinsen and Ginsen baths, a unique offering in Arima Onsen. For Mrs. KI-NRT and her mother, I booked the Wako kihinshitsu (VIP room) at 119mē, while I stayed in the Atago, a slightly smaller (99mē) VIP room. Both suites were renovated in 2023, offering modern comforts without the musty smell often found in older properties.


Nakanobo Zuien - Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) "Atago", 99mē


Nakanobo Zuien - Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) "Atago", 99mē


Nakanobo Zuien - Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) "Atago", 99mē

The Wako suite was a true luxury experience, featuring a Western-style living room, a Japanese tatami room, a separate bedroom with two double beds, two toilets, and a deck with the Kinsen and Ginsen onsens. The Atago was similarly comfortable, but the living and tatami sections were combined into a single large area, and it only had one toilet. Both rooms had equally sized stone tubs for the onsens, and the experience was the same.


"Kinsen" (gold) and "Ginsen" (silver) baths in both the Wako and Atago VIP rooms

Regarding the onsen, it’s worth noting that while the baths are 100% pure, they are junkan (recirculated), not gensen kakenagashi (fresh and continually-fed spring water). I’m not sure any luxury ryokan in Arima offers a non-recirculated bath, likely due to the limited spring water supply in the area. That said, the water temperature was just right, allowing us to enjoy long, relaxing soaks without discomfort.

Dining options at Nakanobo Zuien are a bit overwhelming, but the quality is generally excellent. There’s a public cafe and a restaurant, Shunsai Inano, where you can enjoy standard Japanese dishes or a teppanyaki course featuring Kuroge Wagyu or Kobe beef, as well as Kobe beef sukiyaki. For overnight guests, there are even more options: a standard kaiseki meal or an upgraded "chef's choice" kaiseki, served either in-room or in a private dining room. For a unique experience, there’s also the Chef’s Room Kuriya, offering teppanyaki or charbroiled steak cooked in a heat-resistant brick kiln for added smoky flavor.


Lightly-seared Kobe beef nigiri sushi


Scallops, romaine lettuce & shimeji mushrooms cooked with butter over a teppan griddle


Kobe beef filet teppanyaki (for two)

The dining experience was fantastic, particularly the teppanyaki. While seated around a teppan grill (think Benihana style, but with more space between each group), we were treated to a variety of well-prepared dishes. The cold chawanmushi (savory egg custard), sashimi platter, and lightly-seared Kobe beef nigiri were standouts. The teppan-grilled scallops, romaine lettuce, and Shimeji mushrooms cooked in butter were surprisingly delicious - scallops aren’t usually my thing, but this dish was a delightful combination. While the Kobe beef filet was excellent, it didn’t quite meet our high expectations (we later learned it wasn’t the highest grade they offer; there was a Chateaubriand option). If given the choice, I’d opt for the Chateaubriand cut (the center of the tenderloin, and is equally tender but has more flavor than filet) each time, every time.

For breakfast, Nakanobo Zuien offers both Japanese and Western options. While hearty and healthy, the breakfast didn’t stand out compared to other luxury ryokans. There were a few interesting dishes, but nothing that elicited a “wow” from us.

Ms. Kominami, who took care of our meals, was a highlight of our stay. Enthusiastic, patient (I ask a lot of questions about the dishes), and attentive, she ensured we were well taken care of throughout our time there. When we asked for another bottle of sake, she served us the refill within minutes.


Nakanobo Zuien garden at night

Arima Onsen is one of the most accessible onsen destinations in the Kansai region, just 40 minutes by car or 1 hour by train from Osaka, and 25 minutes by car from Kobe’s Sannomiya Station. It’s a charming getaway, and Nakanobo Zuien is a solid choice for those looking for luxury, particularly if you can book one of the rooms with both Kinsen and Ginsen onsens. While I’m not sure I’d go out of my way to visit Arima if I weren’t already in Osaka or Kobe, I’m looking forward to exploring a few more of the luxury ryokan in the area before making a final judgment.