Fukudaya - with Mr. Yamada and Ms. Numata

After our stay at Tsukihitei, we found ourselves with a spare night before returning home. Looking at our options, we realized we hadn’t spent much time exploring the Lake Biwa area - the largest freshwater lake in Japan. There were still a few Kansai destinations on our to-visit list, such as Ōmi Hachiman and Shigaraki, but ever since hearing positive feedback about Fukudaya since its grand opening in 2023, we decided to give it a try and figure out our sightseeing plans later.


View of Lake Biwa from Fukudaya

Late September can be a tricky time to visit - it’s the tail end of typhoon season, which can bring bouts of heavy rain, and it can also be uncomfortably hot. Fortunately, we avoided the heat, though we did have to contend with some overcast skies during our two days in the area. No matter - the promise of a quiet retreat by the water, with the sounds of waves and waterfowl and no other guests on-site, was immensely appealing to us.

Imazu Village, in Takashima City, was historically a key stop between the Sea of Japan and Kyoto, where merchants transported seafood - mainly mackerel (saba). Because of the heavy traffic through the area, several large yado (traditional Japanese inns) were established in Imazu. The site of today’s Fukudaya was once part of one such establishment, founded over 140 years ago. The current building represents a small portion of the original property and reopened in 2022 after careful, extensive renovations that began during the pandemic.


Iriori (sunken hearth) at Fukudaya

The surrounding area offers several notable attractions. Takashima itself thrived as a post town on the trade route from Fukui to Kyoto, while nearby Higashi-Ōmi is famous for Ōmi beef, one of Japan’s top three Wagyu varieties. Within walking distance of Fukudaya lies the small but charming Imazu Village, home to Vories Street, named after William Merrell Vories - an American architect, entrepreneur, educator, and missionary who spent most of his life in Japan. Three of his notable works remain here: a former bank, a former church, and a former post office.


Dining room at Fukudaya

Further afield, visitors can rent boats to explore Lake Biwa or visit Harie Village, known for its unique kabata system - an ingenious network of spring-fed streams used for washing and cooling food. Locals maintain this pristine waterway by keeping carp that feed on algae and organic debris, and they hold communal cleaning days every few months to ensure the water remains pure as it flows through the village and into rice paddies. We joined a guided tour of the kabata system, which was both informative and delightful.


1F Washitsu (Japanese room) at Fukudaya


1F Washitsu (Japanese room) at Fukudaya

Fukudaya accommodates only one group at a time, with a maximum capacity of six guests. The two-story stand-alone structure includes a bedroom with two double beds and two tatami rooms that can host up to four additional guests on futons. The ryokan is generously equipped with three bathrooms. As mentioned, it’s a traditional Japanese building, and the interior pays homage to the initial inn that once stood here. The original irori (sunken hearth) remains intact, giving the property a warm, nostalgic atmosphere. The rest of the interior is charmingly rustic yet tastefully refined. Views of Lake Biwa can be enjoyed from the upstairs tatami room, the dining room, and the first-floor deck. (For those wondering: the indoor bath with deck access is not an onsen.)


2F Tatami / Bedroom at Fukudaya


2F Tatami / Bedroom at Fukudaya

We were looked after by a two-person team: the main attendant, Ms. Numata, and the chef/general manager, Mr. Yamada. Yamada’s culinary background reflects an impressive fusion of Japanese and international techniques. After a decade at a renowned Kyoto kaiseki restaurant, he went on to work at Amanpuri, Aman Canal Grande Venice, Amanemu, and Azumi Setoda. His cooking draws on these experiences and showcases his close relationships with local producers and farmers.


2F stairs and work table at Fukudaya


Fukudaya's bath (not onsen)

His creations were excellent overall. The Lake Biwa trout with eggplant purée was superb, as was the homemade sabazushi (cured and pressed mackerel sushi), a specialty of Shiga. And of course, the grilled Ōmi beef sirloin - from the same region, once known as Ōmi Province - was exceptional. It easily holds its own alongside Japan’s most celebrated Wagyu varieties: Matsusaka, Kobe, Hida, and Miyazaki.


Appetizers - Straw-grilled bonito, chou pastry with carrot cream, simmered octopus with Japanese parsley, pressed and cured Mackerel sushi and broccoli tart


Biwa trout, Japanese eggplant, tomato, Japanese eggplant puree


Omi beef sirloin

Breakfast was equally satisfying. Though Yamada served fewer dishes than some ryokans, what was presented was both hearty and healthful. A selection of steamed, simmered, cured, and dashi-infused offerings delighted us. Notably, the morning’s rice service featured Inoichi-no-ichi, a dense variety distinct from the Asahi rice (cooked with gingko nuts) that had accompanied dinner.


Japanese breakfast at Fukudaya

If there was one shortcoming, it lay in the interaction with the staff. Both Ms. Numata and Mr. Yamada were kind and attentive, but extremely reserved—even by Japanese standards. We tried to make friendly conversation, but exchanges were brief and ended quickly. The limited explanation of each dinner dish was particularly noticeable, especially since Fukudaya doesn’t provide a written menu. For example, when the first course was served - a spring roll - Ms. Numata described it simply as harumaki. Only when I asked for details did we learn it was filled with Japanese sweet potato and eel. For guests like us, understanding what we’re eating adds depth to the experience - and we’re surely not alone in that sentiment.

Because Fukudaya is a private retreat where the staff serve only your group, a slightly more engaging approach would elevate the stay considerably. I suspect this reticence might feel even more pronounced for international guests, who reportedly make up about a third of Fukudaya’s clientele.

High-end properties around Lake Biwa - and in Shiga Prefecture more broadly - are few and far between. Fukudaya admirably fills that gap, combining classic architecture, refined cuisine, spacious accommodations, and serene lakeside views.