Tsukihitei property grounds & reception building


Tsukihitei property grounds & reception building

We’re huge fans of Nara. We’ve visited Japan’s original ancient capital numerous times, and it never gets old. Most visitors make a day trip from Kyoto or Osaka to feed the wild (but very tame) deer in Nara Park and stop by the awe-inspiring Todaiji Temple, but there’s so much more to see and do. Nara was the imperial capital before its relocation to Kyoto in 794 A.D., and many of its buildings and monuments remain beautifully preserved. The city flourished during the formative years of Japanese culture, when Chinese influence - in architecture, religion, tea, and philosophy - was far more pronounced than in Kyoto. The two cities couldn’t be more different, yet each is extraordinary in its own way. I’ve long encouraged travelers to spend at least one night in Nara rather than Osaka (unless you’re dead set on visiting Dotonbori or Universal Studios Japan / Super Nintendo World), or reduce their stay in Kyoto to fit in Nara. And now, with Kyoto overrun by tourist crowds, there’s never been a better time to savor Nara instead of its more famous neighbors.


Tsukihitei - looking out from the front entrance


Tsukihitei property grounds

One of our favorite activities in Nara is hiking the Kasugayama (Mt. Kasuga) Primeval Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that remains largely untouched. Hunting and logging have been banned since 841 A.D., and public access was restricted until after World War II, which has helped preserve its rare flora and fauna. Today, anyone can explore its network of trails winding through ancient cedars and colorful maples, with vistas overlooking Nara Park and the city below. Trailheads to this little-known natural wonder are just minutes from Nara Park, Todaiji Temple, and Kasuga Taisha Shrine - making it easy to combine a full day of sightseeing with a nature escape. This time, we planned to tackle the extended 11.5-kilometer route, so staying nearby that evening seemed only logical. Little did I know a ryokan existed within the Primeval Forest - and a first-rate one at that.


Tsukihitei covered walkway

Nara Kasuga Okuyama Tsukihitei (henceforth, Tsukihitei) was founded in 1902 (Meiji 35) as a guesthouse and restaurant for the Governor of Nara Prefecture to entertain distinguished guests. Surrounded by the trees of the Kasugayama Primeval Forest, it now operates as a five-room ryokan. It was somewhat outdated until the Miyako Hotel Group - owners of the Shima Kanko Hotel, several Miyako-branded properties, and a number of Marriott affiliates - acquired it and began extensive renovations. The Sakura Villa, Wakaba, and Take no Ma rooms were all refurbished between 2023 and early this year. If you stay here, I highly recommend choosing one of these three, as the other two (Hagi and Yanagi) have yet to be renovated and are noticeably simpler.



The property grounds feel like an extension of the forest itself, with tasteful touches such as a stone lantern and a small bridge spanning a creek. The true highlight, however, is the architecture—faithfully preserved and perfectly suited to its setting. Covered wooden walkways connect the reception building and lounge to the guest rooms, offering lovely views of the untamed natural scenery. The grounds aren’t vast, but what’s there is wonderfully atmospheric. The main building houses the lounge and a banquet hall occasionally used for private events. There are also two indoor private baths available to guests when unoccupied. (Note: Tsukihitei does not have onsen baths.)


Tsukihitei's Betto Sakura villa


Tsukihitei's Betto Sakura villa


Tsukihitei's Betto Sakura villa

We were fortunate to secure the Sakura Villa, a 90mē suite and the best of the five accommodations. Rebuilt in April 2023, it’s designed in a “modern rural Japanese” style that harmonizes beautifully with the surrounding forest. While the tatami room is traditional, the recessed floor beneath the table allows guests to sit comfortably “into” the ground rather than on top of it. Amenities include heated floors, Western-style beds with light, fluffy bedding, and a hinoki bath. Internet access is fast and reliable, but there’s no television - a thoughtful omission in my mind, since most guests come here to reconnect with nature.


Tsukihitei's Betto Sakura villa


Tsukihitei's Betto Sakura villa bedroom

Guests staying in Sakura, Wakaba, and Take no Ma enjoy meals served in their rooms, while those in Hagi and Yanagi dine in private rooms just steps away - ensuring a bespoke culinary experience for everyone. The creative kaiseki dishes were meticulously prepared and beautifully presented. Interestingly, Tsukihitei sources ingredients from across Japan rather than focusing on local specialties. This isn’t necessarily a drawback - the quality of seafood, meat, and produce was uniformly high - but it does make the experience feel different from regional ryokans that proudly detail the provenance of each ingredient. Our server didn’t elaborate much on the menu, though she did mention that the abalone (including its liver) and sea urchin were sourced from Hokkaido - and both were outstanding.


Tsukihitei dinner - Simmered Conger Eel and and Tofu stuffed in Japanese Squash


Tsukihitei dinner - Appetizers, including grilled Spiny Lobster, Charcoal-grilled Horsehead fish, Red Sea Bream sushi and Simmered Ayu (Sweetfish)

One standout dish was local: the Yamato Kamo Kuzu-uchi clear soup. Yamato duck is a crossbreed raised at the foot of Mt. Katsuragi in Nara Prefecture. Here, the duck was lightly coated with kuzu (arrowroot starch) and parboiled, creating a smooth, translucent surface that sealed in the umami. The soup also included Miwa somen - fried, hand-pulled noodles from Nara - along with tomatoes, grilled white scallions, taro stems, and fragrant yuzu. It looked simple, but each bite revealed remarkable depth and evolving layers of flavor.


Tsukihitei dinner - Kuroge Wagyu beef sirloin Shabu Shabu (hot pot)

Luxury travelers to Nara aren’t spoiled for choice. Fufu Nara is sleek and new but leans more hotel-like (and corporate), lacking Tsukihitei’s intimacy. Noborioji Hotel Nara has an unbeatable location next to Nara Park, Kintetsu Nara Station, Higashimuki Shopping Street, and the UNESCO-listed Kofukuji Temple, but its suites aren’t great value by Nara standards and the property feels a bit tired. Shisui, a Luxury Collection Hotel, is also well-located but has small rooms - the largest suite is only 53mē. None of these are bad options, but if you want to stay somewhere central yet enjoy true seclusion and serenity, Tsukihitei has no equal.