Main pond and garden, with the Rinsenkaku villa lit-up at night

The main purpose of our trip to Niigata was to visit Sado Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the Sado Kinzan (Gold Mines), which were once the world’s largest producer of gold. Although the mine operated from 1601 to 1989, it exemplifies the advanced stage of traditional, unmechanized gold production that continued until the mid-19th century. There are also several other unique sightseeing spots on the island that are well worth visiting.

We took a round-trip ferry between the mainland and Sado Island and stayed at Hotel Oosado for two nights. I won’t go into detail about that property, as it’s technically not a ryokan (keep an eye out for my TripAdvisor review in the future), but it was a delightful stay overall - with true onsen baths (including one in our room) and meals that far exceeded our expectations.

After visiting Sado, we decided to spend a night in Niigata proper to stay at Kansuiro, one of several renowned ryokans in the area. The other two we considered were Shaga no Sato Yumeya, known for its impeccable service and cuisine, and Koshi no Sato, famed for its breathtaking valley views. We ultimately chose Kansuiro for its historic architecture and the unique mineral properties of its hot springs in the Murasugi Onsen area - and we were very pleased with our decision.


Main walkway at Kansuiro


Main walkway at Kansuiro



Moss-covered grounds at Kansuiro

Driving up to Kansuiro, the first thing that struck us was the beauty of the grounds. The combination of lush foliage, moss-covered paths, and several creeks and ponds gave the property an almost mystical charm. The extraordinary architecture of the main building and the villas scattered across the landscape only enhanced that feeling. It’s the kind of place where your blood pressure seems to drop the moment you arrive.


Kansuiro - reception area

This nine-room ryokan was founded in 1614, although the oldest surviving buildings date back to the Meiji era (1868-1912). Of the nine accommodations, four are stand-alone villas featuring in-room onsen, while the remaining rooms are in the main building - Taisho-no-ma, a Registered Tangible Cultural Property constructed in 1915. Guests staying in Taisho-no-ma don’t have private onsen, but communal and family baths are available for all.


Taisho-no-ma building

The most notable structure at Kansuiro is the Rinsenkaku Villa, its highest-category lodging. Assembled in the 19th century, the two-story wooden structure sits on elevated ground at the center of the property and features two tatami rooms on each floor, a Western-style living room, dining room, bedroom, and a semi-open-air onsen bath. Verandas encircle the building on all sides, with enough foliage to ensure privacy while still allowing serene views of the garden and pond. Though Rinsenkaku is old, it’s been thoughtfully updated while maintaining its original charm. The floors don’t creak, the rooms are bright and comfortable, and the amenities are modern - lightning-fast Wi-Fi, dual toilets, and a spacious shower area for two.


Rinsenkaku villa


Rinsenkaku villa


Rinsenkaku villa


Rinsenkaku villa


Rinsenkaku villa

The Murasugi Onsen area is famous as one of Japan’s foremost radium hot springs. According to Kansuiro’s proprietress, guests are advised not to open the glass doors of the in-room onsen, as the rising steam - rich in minerals, especially radium - is said to be beneficial when inhaled, allowing the minerals to enter the bloodstream through the lungs. It’s supposedly even more effective than absorption through the skin. Showering afterward is also not recommended; instead, guests are encouraged to gently pat dry with a towel to retain the minerals on the skin as long as possible. For this reason, both the communal and private baths are indoors, sealed from the outside air.


Rinsenkaku villa's onsen

One of Kansuiro’s hallmarks is its bespoke dining experience. All guests are served meals privately - either in their rooms or, in our case, in a private dining room in the reception building. Rinsenkaku’s elevated location and stone steps make it challenging for staff to deliver multi-course meals directly, but we didn’t mind one bit. The dining room offered a different yet equally beautiful view of the grounds, making for a refreshing change of scenery.


Appetizers at Kansuiro

The cuisine at Kansuiro was another highlight. Surrounded by farms, mountains, and within an hour’s drive from the coast, the ryokan makes full use of Niigata’s bounty of local ingredients. The sashimi selection - Flounder, Sawedged Perch, Peony Shrimp (from Sado Island), Greater Japanese Amberjack, Kisslip Cuttlefish, and Scallops - was incredibly fresh and flavorful. On the meat side, the Shibata-raised Niigata beef sirloin was excellent, as was the Koganeton pork, simmered with pickled plums. This particular pork, a crossbreed of Landrace, Large Yorkshire, and Duroc pigs, is fed with whey (from cheese production) and raised slowly on a special diet - a fascinating story and an even better dish.


High-grade and wonderfully prepared Sashimi at Kansuiro

Two other standouts were both creative and memorable: Nasu Tonyu-yose, a delicate amuse-bouche of hardened soy milk with eggplant at its center, and the Suimono (clear dashi soup) featuring wheat gluten mixed with red shiso and pickled plum, wood ear mushrooms, and Japanese parsley. Simple in concept but masterful in execution. Many of the smaller appetizers featured wild mountain vegetables - a hallmark of Niigata and the broader Tohoku region.


Grilled Nodoguro (Blackthroat Seaperch) with egg and grilled fig. Unfortunately, it was not the best time of the year for Nodoguro

Our one disappointment was ironically the dish we most anticipated: grilled Nodoguro (Blackthroat Seaperch, or Rosy Seabass). This fish has become a major delicacy in Japan over the past decade, prized for its umami-rich, fatty flesh that melts in the mouth when perfectly prepared. Kansuiro even features it prominently in their marketing materials. Unfortunately, ours wasn’t as rich or juicy as versions we’ve had elsewhere - likely because it wasn’t peak season. Generally, fall to winter is when Nodoguro is at its fattiest and most flavorful. Shame on me for not realizing that in advance!

Service overall was polished and elegant. The staff were very alert and accommodating, and the personal dinner and breakfast servers went to great lengths to explain each of the servings in great detail (such as the method in which the Koganeton Pork was raised, and why they are fed whey.) We didn't have much need for concierge-style support - it's generally not as necessary when staying at a top-tier ryokan since the property itself is the destination rather than merely being a place to spend the night.


Kansuiro property grounds with Kansuiro villa in the background

While we usually prefer newer wa-modern (modern Japanese) properties, Kansuiro is a clear exception. Its charm is off the charts, and the serenity of its classic architecture and idyllic grounds gives it an unmistakable sense of place that few others can match. Add to that the comfort and modern amenities of its accommodations, and there’s no need to compromise a single thing when staying at Kansuiro.