In the last month I've had three long hauls on KL, with one just today. All of them have been pretty fantastic, including the food on board. My parents also had similar things to say about their two LH flights.
Given, I'm not a wine or champagne drinker so that aspect is something I couldn't cover. But if these recent LH experiences are something to go by, then the KLM experience on LH is quite close to AF at this point.
On both airlines it depends on how good the crew wants to be, and so in that sense, it's a lottery anyway. But the crew apathy I'd experienced in recent years on KLM has mostly disappeared.
Slightly different note, but as Ulti now I have a higher hit ratio on KLM than AF with service on board, attention to preferences and so on. This is only looking back the last 4 months, and my gut says it's just because I got lucky with great crews and pursers.