Prologue

Since we were away from home for almost the entire winter of 2024/2025 until mid-April, we had actually planned to be at home for the summer. But in July, the situation at home in Kyiv became extreme. Fascist ruZZia escalated once again. We barely had a single quiet night. The attacks with up to 600 kamikaze drones, ballistic missiles, and cruise missiles, with Kyiv as the primary target, took place almost every night from around 11 p.m. to 6 a.m.

Not being able to sleep for days is one thing, but the psychological pressure of hearing drones flying overhead at night, getting ever closer, hoping they're flying overhead, constantly hearing explosions in the air and on the ground, jet-powered cruise missiles roaring low over the house, never knowing whether they'll hit you or not, is extreme.

While some people cope better with this, others suffer panic attacks that cannot be suppressed even with strong medication.

Unfortunately, my wife falls into the second category, so I urgently needed to get her out, which is why I planned a short-notice vacation from the war.

At first, I only planned a road trip, but after a phone call with a good friend I hadn't seen in several years, I took the opportunity to extend the trip, including a detour by plane to the north.

From Kyiv (Kyiv) to Wrocław (Wrocław)

Late morning of July 14, 2025, we loaded the car for a 607 km drive to Mostyska, 15 km east of the Ukrainian-Polish border.

For the first 350 kilometers, the route is still entirely highway. The road is mostly in very good condition, and the network of gas stations with good food options is well-developed, so we got ourselves a hot dog, which are extremely popular in Ukraine, for breakfast/lunch.

Shortly after Rivne, the situation changes fundamentally. The route mostly becomes a regular federal highway with shorter sections that are highway-level. You're grateful for every horsepower your car has, which allows you to accelerate quickly to overtake slower road users, especially long trucks, despite oncoming traffic. The driving is correspondingly stressful.

We arrived in Mostyska in the early afternoon. I had booked the best accommodation in town, 'Hotel Corona,' for about US$40 per night. Luckily, we had packed ahead of time, so we only had to carry two small suitcases up to our clean and, thankfully, air-conditioned hotel room.

Since I was quite exhausted after a night of little sleep and the drive, we had a surprisingly delicious dinner before going to bed, fairly certain that it would be a quiet night so close to the Polish border.

The following morning, we set off early, since it's difficult to estimate whether it will take two or eight hours to cross the border into Poland.

On the way to the border, we filled up gas and were stopped at a military checkpoint, where I was quickly waved through upon showing my German passport. We found ourselves at the end of the surprisingly short line at the Ukrainian border post just before 8 a.m.

The procedure is always identical: first, the car is briefly inspected to see if you're smuggling a deserter abroad. Then, passport control takes place at a counter. A customs officer then appears, usually taking a quick look inside the car and trunk before stamping the inspection slip, which you must present at the exit of the border station before the barrier opens and you're sent toward the Polish border point.

Now, you can be 99% certain that you'll be met with unfriendly behavior, regardless of whether you have a Ukrainian or German passport. I have no idea why, but Polish border officials are extremely unfriendly and bitter, especially the female staff, no matter which border crossing you choose.

This starts with the general refusal to speak any language other than Polish. Once, I was stupid enough to point out to the lady that, since Poland is in the EU, she should be able to communicate in English. The result: 'special treatment' with a complete search of the car on a pit, which took us three hours.

Since then I'm just quite. Therefore only two hours we were on Polish territory.

After a quick breakfast at McDonald's, we struggled west for nearly 20 kilometers along a busy federal highway toward the A4 motorway.

Fortunately, the speed limit in Poland had been raised to 140 km/h, although I've never experienced a speed check without warning on Polish motorways. This is probably also the reason why Poles rarely adhere to the speed limit; you often end up driving along in a column at 180 to 200 km/h. In general, it can be said that, on average, you're faster in Poland than in Germany, partly due to less traffic, even if you're using your vehicle to its full limits on German motorways.

Due to the time difference between Ukraine and Poland, we gained an hour, which is why we arrived in Wrocław around 2 p.m.

This time I booked the Fourpoints by Sheraton, which is located a bit outside the Old Town, but was recommended for its good parking and very attractive overnight rates.

Wrocław outside the Old Town was a bitter surprise: after 21 years of EU membership and called Europe's 'tiger economy' due to its strong economic growth, I would have expected a different condition of the city, especially about the streets. Even my wife was surprised that the communist-era apartment blocks were largely unrenovated, and the streets were in such a poor condition that we were surprised, even coming from Kyiv.

After checking in, we took an Uber towards the Old Town.

Wrocław, Poland's third-largest city, has a very turbulent history. In broad outline and very simplified terms, one could say that the city was 'German' from the 13th century until the end of World War II, when it was handed over to Poland by the Soviet Union as compensation for the territories it had taken in the east. The city's German inhabitants were expelled, and Poles who had been expelled from the territories in the east annexed by the Soviet Union were resettled there.

The city's architecture, especially in and around the old town, can be described as typically German, featuring, on the one hand, very monumental, fortress-like administrative buildings from the 19th century, and, on the other, outstanding buildings, especially department stores in the Weimar 'Bauhaus' style of the 20th century.

I am particularly fan to the latter architectural style, which is why I first headed for the former Wertheim department store (built in 1930) and the Petersdorff department store (built in 1929).

Of course, the actual Old Town with the Great Ring (Main Square) and the old town hall is also not to be underestimated, but this part of the city is very touristy.

The next morning, we took an Uber to another architectural highlight of Wrocław, the Market Hall, an early reinforced concrete structure built between 1906 and 1908. This market hall is still in full operation today, so you can take a good look at the building and its offerings.

From here, it's just a few steps across the Sand Bridge (1861) to the Sand Island, where the Sand Church, built in the Gothic style between 1334 and 1430, is located.

From here, you can easily reach Wrocław Cathedral, also built in the Gothic style between 1244 and 1341, via the Cathedral Bridge (1890).

After these must-do sightseeing visits, we crossed the Oder River past the 'Panorama' to the city's next highlight, the Post Savings Office, built in 1925-29 in the Brick Expressionist style. Since the building houses the Postal Museum, small parts of it can also be viewed inside.

After a relatively poor Indian lunch, we walked to the main train station, built in the Romantic style around 1850, and took an Uber back to the hotel.

In the afternoon, we visited two more of the city's highlights by car: the impressive Wrocław Water Tower (1897, Neo-Gothic) and the Centennial Hall, the largest reinforced concrete building in Germany at the time of its construction (1913).

After the relatively poor lunch, we hoped for an excellent dinner, consulted the Michelin Guide, opted for the recommended "Mercado Tapas Bistro," drove there in the pouring rain, and luckily found a parking space right in front of the restaurant.

Unfortunately, the food was disappointing, relatively tasteless, and the composition of the dishes was inconsistent.

In summary, my verdict on Wrocław was confirmed on my second visit: Wrocław is architecturally one of the most beautiful historic German cities, also due to its compact nature, which makes it very easy to explore.