Teisui is one of the most polarizing properties we've experienced in Japan. On one hand, it's remarkable that anything resembling luxury exists in the remote Oga Peninsula of Akita Prefecture. The room views are breathtaking, the hazel-hued onsen bath is soothing, and the story behind the perseverance of the Okami (proprietress) makes you want to root for the ryokan's success.


The big Namahage statues in the Oga Peninsula, Akita Prefecture

On the other hand, service feels uneven, the food is simply "good," and several rooms are ones we'd actively avoid. Net-net: if we had come purely for a ryokan experience without deeper interactions with Okami-san, this likely would have ranked as one of our more underwhelming stays.

As explained in our Yamado review, we booked Teisui after canceling our stay at Meigetsuso due to Yamagata's poor cherry-picking season. We wanted to stay somewhere within a few hours' drive from Natsuse Onsen Miyakowasure, but luxury ryokans in Akita, Aomori, and Iwate are scarce. Expecting a compromise, we happened upon Teisui — a highly rated listing on Japan’s Ikyu site — and committed.


Unshoji Temple - Hydrangeas in full bloom


Unshoji Temple

We'd always intended to visit Oga, a scenic peninsula extending into the Sea of Japan and famously home to the Namahage — demon-like figures in straw capes, central to a lively New Year's tradition. On our list: the Namahage Museum, Oga Shinzan Folklore Museum, and Unshoji Temple, which we hoped would be awash in blooming hydrangeas. Our Oga experience surpassed expectations. The entire peninsula is blissfully uncrowded, scenic, and surprisingly rich in attractions — including an aquarium just a stone's throw from Teisui, and home to a charismatic polar bear.


Namahage Museum


Namahage New Year's Eve ritual enactment at the Oga Shinzan Folklore Museum

We drove a leisurely two hours from Miyakowasure to Teisui, stopping at Unshoji en route. Most visitors arrive via Shinkansen to Akita Station (nearly 4 hours from Tokyo) or fly into Akita Airport, followed by a transfer to Oga Station and a 30-minute drive. Unsurprisingly, Oga was quiet; it was early summer (before school Summer vacation is out), and Teisui felt nearly empty — only 3 of its 10 rooms were occupied during our stay.

Through long conversations with the Okami, Emiko Hirabayashi, we learned Teisui's backstory:


Teisui entrance

Originally opened in 1992 under a different name, Teisui began as a mid-range boutique hotel. Economic hardship and Oga's remoteness led to its closure. In 2014, Emiko's husband — based in Tokyo — bought the property, hoping to revive it. After failed attempts by three different GMs, he was ready to abandon the venture. In 2017, Emiko took the reins herself.


Teisui reception area

Faced with an unreliable onsen supply (the source was about to run out) and the blow of COVID, Teisui's future seemed uncertain. Emiko's husband's encouragement prompted her to double down. First, she invested nearly $1 million to drill for an onsen source on site — and struck gold. Not only was it viable, but its rare brown hue added distinction. From 2022 to 2024, she poured $5 million into modernizing the building's exterior and refurbishing its interiors, including all guest rooms. While Teisui isn't yet operationally in the black, Emiko believes it's close — and with continued word of mouth, she's hopeful it will break even.


Teisui lounge area

Her broader goal is to position Teisui as a symbol of hope for Oga locals seeking to grow tourism. Once complete, she plans to pass the reins to someone who shares her vision. She's also active in community initiatives — protecting local flora and fauna, and exploring a cattle ranch venture.

Teisui's future roadmap is ambitious. Emiko wants to further train the staff in omotenashi hospitality (she admits they're not quite there), launch marketing for foreign guests, and eventually rebuild all guest rooms to be more spacious and include open-air baths with ocean-facing balconies that currently don't have it. Currently, she's not prioritizing non-Japanese visitors; only a small number of Taiwanese travelers visit monthly, thanks to a twice-weekly flight between Taipei and Akita, and there are no English-speaking staff on site.


Stunning view from Teisui

Without Emiko's story, we likely would have viewed Teisui as uneven — particularly on the hard product side. For a property with only 10 rooms, the building is massive. There's excessive unused space: a lounge with far too much furniture, corridors and floors that sit empty. Our room was clean, contemporary, and comfortable, but a tour of others revealed significant drawbacks.


Nishinokaze room with open-air onsen, 77m²


Nishinokaze room with open-air onsen, 77m²

Our 77m² Nishinokaze suite felt a bit tight, but had a beautiful balcony with stunning ocean views and an unfiltered, brown-toned onsen sourced directly from the spring. (It's worth noting: the public and rental baths use treated, recirculated water and appear clear.) In contrast, Kitanokaze, the so-called "special room," was anything but — dated, without a balcony or full-length windows, and lacking an in-room bath. It's hard to imagine any guest choosing it over Nishinokaze. Do note that Teisui has two room types named Nishinokaze: the larger suite is marked as "special room," while the other is a compact room. Choose carefully.


Nishinokaze room with open-air onsen, 77m²

But oh, the view… the sweeping seascape from our room was nothing short of stunning — from rugged capes to nearby reefs, all laid bare beneath an open sky. A lighthouse on Tomi Island even evoked memories of Prince Edward Island and Cape Cod. It was scene straight out of a Monet painting — if only the haze had lifted during our stay.

We had minimal interactions with other staff, who seemed reserved — perhaps due to inexperience? Or maybe Teisui favors a laid-back service approach? At dinner, our server struggled to explain the appetizers, and quickly summoned Emiko. Initially, she came across as cold and rigid. We asked if hurigana could be added to the kanji on the menu; she began writing, but stopped when the second course arrived — and never got around to finishing it. Later, when Beni Zuwai-gani (Red Snow Crab) was served, we asked if someone could help extract the meat (as Mrs. KI-NRT had an injured right arm that was in a cast). Emiko initially told us it wasn't possible, but relented after some gentle persistence.


Dinner at Teisui - Zensai (appetizers)


Dinner at Teisui - Beni Zuwai-gani (Red Snow Crab) from Oga.

It wasn't until midway through dinner that I realized she was the Okami — learning her name and role only after asking directly. But from that point on, our conversation deepened. She shared insights about Oga, her future plans, and even gave us a guided tour of the entire property. Her pride was clear.


Breakfast at Teisui

Back to dinner: While the meal was crafted with high-quality ingredients, we didn't leave basking in its glow. The standout items — the locally sourced Beni Zuwai-gani (Red Snow Crab) from Oga and the Abalone served on a hot plate — were undeniably excellent, yet their preparation felt conventional: steamed and sautéed, respectively. The Zensai course presented a visually impressive lineup of 16 small bites, though that sheer number made it difficult to savor each element. It's a challenge to fully enjoy what's been served when you've already forgotten half of what was just explained. The deep-fried Horsehead fish, served with its scales intact, offered a pleasing tempura-like crispness and paired nicely with the Unagi (eel) and Akita Komachi-branded steamed rice. The dessert, however, ended things on a rather tepid note: matcha (green tea) ice cream. While it was well-made, it's still… matcha. We might have embraced that choice in Kyoto or Shizuoka — regions renowned for tea — but in Akita, the selection felt unimaginative.

Measured against luxury ryokan standards, Teisui falls short. Service isn't anticipatory, interiors are sparse (no flower arrangements or art installations), and the bathrooms lack in-room amenities — guests collect basics from the front desk, and the products aren’t premium.


Sunset at Teisui

While I admire Emiko's passion, there's a sense of stubbornness that may hinder Teisui's success. She has a firm vision for the guest experience, but some ideas — like claiming Teisui's food is the "absolute best," or that no in-room amenities reduce waste — feel overly idealistic. But maybe it's just us - if guest reviews are any indication, she may well be steering Teisui toward acclaim.

Will we return? I wouldn't rule it out in the distant future — but not until we first try Yamado's new property in Oga, which opened its doors just last month.