View from Somoza's deck. The small structure on the left houses the sauna

Niseko is already well known among globe-trotting skiers and snowboarders. Renowned for its feather-light powder snow and relatively temperate conditions, it's become a winter sanctuary — especially for travelers from Asia and Australia, where world-class ski resorts are few and far between. But Niseko has grown beyond its wintry reputation. With striking natural landscapes, restorative hot springs, and an evolving culinary scene, it now offers visitors a blend of luxury, adventure, and serene relaxation. Hirafu and Niseko Village add to the allure with a vibrant array of restaurants and nightlife, rounding out the experience beyond the slopes.

It's not just a winter destination either. Summer brings mild temperatures and fewer crowds. Visitors can wander scenic trails like the spectacular Shinsen-numa Marsh (our favorite), browse charming local markets, admire seasonal wildflowers, savor regional produce, partake in summer festivals, or take to the water for rafting and kayaking.

The iconic natural symbol of the area is Mt. Yotei (Yotei-zan), a charismatic peak which is visible from the region (but not directly from Shiguchi) on a clear day. For trivia buffs and video game fans, the upcoming sequel to the smash-hit Ghosts of Tsushima is called Ghosts of Yotei, and is set in Hokkaido, the histocial homeland of the Ainu people, and will heavily feature the Ainu culture and protagonists. The game is set in 1603 and will explore the Ainu culture and their traditions, crafts and world view.


View from Somoza's deck


Shiguchi property grounds, including the restored "kominka" (folk houses)

But this growth hasn't come without growing pains. Soaring property values have made housing scarce for seasonal workers, and the rapid influx of visitors has led to labor shortages that have delayed the opening of much-needed luxury hotels like Aman, Six Senses, and Hoshinoya. In the meantime, the Park Hyatt and RC Reserve properties dominate — charging exorbitant rates while offering underwhelming service.

Thankfully, there's a more soulful (and slightly more cost-effective) alternative: ryokans. Zaborin has carved a loyal following since 2015, while Chalet Ivy Hirafu and Tsuruga Besso Moku no Sho have also earned praise. Though still pricey, these ryokans offer better value than their hotel counterparts, typically including half-board meals. And now, by word of mouth, Shiguchi may very well be poised to claim the title of Niseko's top ryokan. We went to see for ourselves.

Shiguchi has a layered origin story. It began as Somoza, a restaurant-gallery hybrid that opened just before the pandemic — and which still serves as Shiguchi's reception, lounge, and dining space. Housed in a beautifully restored kominka (folk house) relocated from Tochigi Prefecture, Somoza is as much a work of art as it is a welcoming hub.


Reception area


Reception area

Shiguchi's creator, Shouya Grigg, took his time building this ryokan. He divested from Zaborin and carefully sourced four historic kominka houses from Aizuwakamatsu in Fukushima Prefecture. Due to Hokkaido's harsher climate and relatively short architectural history, such buildings are rare here. Each structure was lovingly relocated and reassembled in Shiguchi's serene, secluded setting overlooking the Iō River valley — just minutes by car from Zaborin and the Park Hyatt, but with none of the intrusion. There are no other buildings in view — just stillness, sky, and trees. It reminded us of Wanosato in Hida Takayama, though with grander views thanks to the elevated perch.

Inside, Shiguchi blends authenticity with artistic expression. Massive wooden beams and interlocking joints hold the structures aloft — no nails, no screws — true to the craftsmanship found in places like Kyoto’s Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Subtle modern touches and curated art breathe new life into each space. Shouya, an accomplished photographer known for his washi-paper prints, has filled the ryokan with Hokkaido- and Jomon-era inspired artwork, along with his own creations. Guests can even tour his galleries tucked in the basements of Somoza and one of the guesthouses.


KU-空, 247mē


KU-空, 247mē


KU-空, 247mē

Shiguchi comprises three kominka buildings with five accommodations. Two of them are duplex-style, while the showstopper — KA–火—is a standalone villa that spans 351mē if booked by more than two guests (otherwise, a floor is closed off and becomes smaller and cheaper than FU-風, and KU-空). That said, all units are palatial. Even CHI–地, the "smallest" at 144mē, is cozy yet sophisticated, and beautifully designed, and would be our choice should we visit Shiguchi in the future.

We stayed in KU–空, a 247mē, three-story villa with one Western-style bedroom plus multiple tatami rooms for futons if needed. The main living space is on the ground floor, while the bedroom is in the lower level (thanks to the elevated site, even this floor gets light and views). There are two onsen baths — one rock, one hinoki cedar — and a toilet on each level. The dark wood tones give the interiors a moody elegance, punctuated by thoughtful details: a reflecting pool with an abstract installation at the entrance, a flower vase silhouetted in the tea room's circular window, with views of lush foliage just beyond.


KU-空, 247mē


KU-空, 247mē


KU-空, 247mē

Best of all, the hot springs are true gensen kakenagashi — free-flowing from the on-site source, with no circulation or chemical treatment. And on the practical side: lightning-fast Wi-Fi and well-placed USB ports and outlets throughout. Next time, we’d probably book CHI–地 - with both the bedroom and living area on the ground floor, it avoids the need for stairs without compromising charm.

Meals are served in Somoza's restaurant, with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the river and mountains. While we usually prefer private dining, Shiguchi offers a semi-koshitsu room upon request — serene but not fully enclosed, which is fine by us - we are more sensitive to ambient noise than anything. There's also an option to dine in the adjacent lounge if available, which grants a similar, intimate setting.


Tartare of Scallops, red and green perennial algae seaweed, caviar, ponzu jelly


Microleaf salad with Furano asparagus, chrysanthemum petals, salmon roe and sea urchin foam, with peony shrimp hidden beneath


Biratori (Hokkaido) wagyu brisket braised for 4 hours with red wine

Dinner is a creative French-Japanese fusion affair, grounded in Hokkaido's produce and traditions. The Ezo deer tartare was minced Ainu-style and perched atop a beet-and-rice-flour tartlet. A vivid salad of foraged microgreens, Furano asparagus, chrysanthemum petals, and salmon roe was topped with sea urchin foam — rich, refreshing, and unforgettable. Buried at the bottom: sweet raw peony shrimp.

Then came Jomon Pan — an imaginative bread recipe inspired by ingredients from the Jomon period (14,000-3,000 B.C.E.), including buckwheat, sesame, mountain yam, walnuts, and acorn powder. Served on excavated Jomon pottery, it was thoughtful and transportive. The icing on the cake? Every Monday, the staff go foraging in the mountains for wild edible plants — a weekly ritual born of passion, not obligation.


View of the Iō River valley


Art installation between the SUI-水 & CHI-地 rooms

The service here deserves its own chapter. Many of the staff have been at Shiguchi since its debut. Most are Hokkaido-born, each drawn to Shiguchi for its values, aesthetic, and Shouya's quietly ambitious vision. You can feel their pride in every interaction — genuine, warm, and invested.

We left Shiguchi carrying not just lovely memories but a sense of discovery, too. It's a place that honors tradition without being bound by it, guided by an artistic soul and grounded in hospitality that feels deeply human. A true gem in Niseko's growing constellation.

Shiguchi is closed every Monday through Wednesday during non-peak periods.