Jozankei, Hokkaido's largest onsen town, is home to around 20 ryokans and draws an impressive 1.5 million visitors annually. The town is bisected by the scenic Toyohira River, which offers canoeing and boating — especially popular during the vibrant autumn foliage season. While the town has a handful of restaurants and shops, the real attraction is the healing onsen. Rich in minerals, the waters are said to aid skin conditions, fatigue, and even cuts and burns. Scattered parks feature public hot spring footbaths, and upstream you’ll find the charming Nishiki Bridge.

Jozankei's whimsical mascot is the kappa, a mythical water sprite. Statues of this folklore creature are dotted around town, including the towering Great Kappa King near Nishiki Bridge.


Reception area


Reception area

Unless you're planning to ski or embark on extensive hikes, one night is likely enough to explore the onsen town and its surroundings.

We visited in the lush green season — a refreshing escape from the 35°C heat of Tokyo and Osaka. In Jozankei, it was a comfortable 24°C, perfect for enjoying the onsen at Chalet Ivy Jozankei, where we stayed. Opened in September 2019, this riverside ryokan features 26 guest rooms — all a minimum of 67m² and equipped with private in-room onsen. The design blends country charm with modern Japanese aesthetics: warm beige walls and flooring paired with light gray, well-crafted furnishings. It could easily be mistaken for an Aman or Zecha property — if not for its superior cuisine and more reasonable pricing.


Lounge area


Lounge area

As a larger luxury ryokan, Chalet Ivy offers unique amenities including a full spa, sauna, gym, and a private media room. In addition to in-room onsen, there’s a gender-segregated communal bath (Daiyokujo) that, while not enormous, is more spacious than the in-room tubs and often blissfully empty. The spring water, though sourced directly from Jozankei, isn't 100% authentic; tap water is added to temper the 88°C source to a manageable 41°C. While this is fairly common, a more advanced system — like that of Myoken Ishiharaso — would have been a welcome touch given the price point.

Service here is outstanding — better than what we've experienced at the Tsuruga Group's luxury properties. The Okami (proprietress), Ms. Mayumi Yamamoto, though not the owner, is deeply involved. She was the first hospitality hire for Chalet Ivy and participated in its development 18 months before opening, giving her a deep personal stake. Her presence is felt throughout the property — she warmly interacts with guests and ensures a seamless experience.


Premium Suite, 2BR (King & Twin) 137m²

Premium Suite, 2BR (King & Twin) 137m²

Premium Suite, 2BR (King & Twin) 137m²

Premium Suite, 2BR (King & Twin) 137m²

We stayed in the Premium 2-Bedroom Suite, the top category at the ryokan. Admittedly more space than we needed, but with better views and only a modest price difference from the Deluxe Corner Suite, it felt worth it. The suite was spacious, beautifully appointed, and soul-soothing. If we could change one thing, it would be to add a terrace with an open-air onsen — perhaps not feasible in winter, but ideal in summer.

Dining was a highlight. While not everything was local, the quality of ingredients and execution stood out. A5 Hida Beef wrapped with komatsuna (Japanese mustard spinach) was a standout — rich, marbled beef paired with slightly bitter greens made for a perfectly balanced bite. The sashimi selection featured local catches like hirame (flounder), hokkigai (arctic surf clam), botan ebi (peony shrimp), and nishin (herring), with seasonal exceptions like hon maguro (bluefin tuna) from Nagasaki and chiayu (baby sweetfish) from Tohoku. The standout dish was the abura bozu - miso-marinated and grilled skillfish fried sakura cherry leaves and hollandaise sauce with condensed milk. We've never had abura bozu before, and we found the fish full of (good) fat, flavor and plumpness that had us savoring every bite. The hojicha dessert trio — pudding, ice cream, and jelly — was a delicate and refreshing finale. The two-hour meal was far superior to our disappointing experience at Lake Tsuruga Besso Ao no Za.


Hida Gyu Komatsuna-maki (Hida Beef wrapped over Japanese mustard spinach)


Kabu Sureoroshita Mizore Jitate (Soup made from grated Japanese turnip along with dashi and salt) along with Abalone, Bracken, and Mame Kabu Turnip


Hidaka-san Abura Bozu Saikyo-yaki (Miso-marinated and grilled Skillfish from Hidaka, Hokkaido) with fried Sakura cherry leaves and Hollandaise sauce with Tonyu (condensed milk).

Breakfast was equally impressive. A variety of homemade condiments complemented the Hime Pirika rice — surprisingly high quality — and grilled fish and thinly sliced meat in a delicate dashi kept things light yet satisfying.


Breakfast

Chalet Ivy is on the pricey side, but it delivers: exceptional design, personalized service, and memorable meals. As for whether to choose Jozankei or Noboribetsu, it depends on your preferences. Chalet Ivy outshines Takinoya in most respects, though the latter offers 100% pure hot spring water, more expansive communal baths with better views, and the option to dine in-room. Still, Chalet Ivy makes a compelling case as Jozankei's premier luxury stay.