Did more research and have decided to go to Bali but stay in Sidemen for 4 nights first, which is supposed to be less spoiled than central Ubud.
However, someone who lives in Ubud tells me Penestanan and Campuan will be much as I remember them from a few decades ago. I’m curious to see for myself so I may spend the other 4 of 8 nights in Penestanan. Well kept secret or do the ones staying away from Ubud, declaring it destroyed, only stay in Central Ubud? Seems like potential misinformation.