Sunset at Fuji Seiran
Earlier this year, I learned about the opening of Fuji Seiran, a new luxury ryokan near Cape Osezaki on the Izu Peninsula. The prospect was particularly exciting, as we had fond memories of our visit to the cape — an ancient one-kilometer strip of land, covered in virgin juniper forest, stretching into Suruga Bay. From the shore, we once saw Mt. Fuji rising majestically above the shimmering waters, with Ose Shrine peeking out in the foreground.
Hearing that Fuji Seiran’s grand opening was set for May 23 was bittersweet. The best months for clear Fuji views are late fall through early spring, when the air is crisp and conditions are less hazy. Not to mention, the latter in the Summer it gets, the less snow blankets the peak. But when my wife said, “What the heck? Let’s go!” we decided to bring her mother along for a visit just two days after its official opening.
We lucked out with the Mt. Fuji views, especially for May.
Background & Location
Fuji Seiran is the ninth property in its parent company’s portfolio, which includes glamping lodges and upscale accommodations throughout Izu. Prior to Fuji Seiran, Fugaku Gunjo — located 30 km south — was its most exclusive ryokan, offering incredible Fuji views on lucky days.
Getting to Fuji Seiran from Tokyo is relatively straightforward:
- By Shinkansen: 1 hour to Mishima Station, followed by a 75-minute complimentary shuttle ride to the property
- By Odoriko train: To Shuzenji Station (home to Asaba ryokan), with a 40-minute complimentary shuttle transfer
Souten room
Souten room
Souten room
Atmosphere & Hospitality
At the time of our stay, we were the only guests on the property. Assistant GM Takara Sato — temporarily handling GM duties while the actual GM was on sick leave — welcomed us with enthusiasm, accompanied by a young, cheerful team from Japan, Myanmar, Taiwan, and Vietnam. It felt like they were gearing up to attract international visitors. For Japanese guests, I'm guessing that between Mr. Sato and the GM, they would be more than managing up to five groups of guests.
Rooms & Design
Fuji Seiran’s five rooms share identical size, amenities, and technology, with subtle variations in décor. Each features:
- Ocean-facing views of Mt. Fuji
- Private onsen bath on the deck
- Sauna
View from Amanohana
Obscured view from Souten
However, one unexpected design choice was that the rooms are not standalone villas — they share walls. For a newly built luxury ryokan, detached rooms would have been preferable. Noise levels shouldn’t be an issue, but that’s just an assumption.
Welcome treats. Top: Japanese sweets. Bottom: Western bites.
I stayed in Souten, the furthest room from the main building, while Mrs. KI-NRT and her mother stayed in Amanohana, the closest. Interestingly, Souten is not the most desirable room, despite its end-unit position. It sits slightly lower on the hill, making it more exposed to people below on the opposite side of the cape. To compensate, smoked glass barriers were placed along the deck’s railing — unfortunately blocking the view while bathing. Mr. Sato assured us they could remove the barriers upon request, but if you stay here, I recommend avoiding Souten for an unimpeded view.
Despite claims of 150 square meters, the actual living space is closer to 100 square meters — still generous, though more akin to Aman-style junior suites rather than full suites.
Onsen: Not Quite Authentic
One key detail: Fuji Seiran does not have a natural onsen source onsite. The only hot spring in the Heda area is transported daily by truck, heated, then dispensed into each bath. While still enjoyable, it’s a recirculated system rather than a true onsen flowing from the source.
On the bright side, Fuji Seiran offers heated towel racks and complimentary electric toothbrushes — a unique amenity we had never encountered anywhere. The toiletries, sourced from Misuzu, feature skincare products infused with “human bone marrow stem cell circulating culture medium” — whatever that means! Their aim is apparently skin deoxidization.
Common Areas & Views
Near Souten sits Yuhimi Terrace, an elegant lounge where guests can relax with canapés, treats, coffee, or tea while enjoying the sunset. However, the terrace’s angled design eliminates views of Mt. Fuji, which was an unfortunate oversight.
Dining: A Stunning Experience
Meals are served in private
koshitsu dining rooms in the main building, each offering a bird’s-eye view of Mt. Fuji. We arrived just as sunset painted the sky, and stepped onto the outdoor deck to admire the evolving hues over the landscape and - thankfully - Mt. Fuji itself.
An assortment of wonderful appetizers
Ise Spiny Lobster
The cuisine was spectacular — every serving was artfully crafted, sophisticated, and expertly balanced. The menu focused on Suruga Bay’s bounty and locally sourced ingredients from Izu farms.
Standout dishes included:
- Unagi Shirayaki (salt-grilled freshwater eel)
- Foie Gras Croquette
- Grilled Ise Spiny Lobster with sauce made from its liver
- Lightly-seared Bonito, bathed in soy sauce dashi, spring onions, and fried garlic — a simple dish that was simply sublime
Unagi Shirayaki - Salt-grilled freshwater Eel
As a lovely souvenir, we received personalized chopsticks engraved with our names and visit date — a thoughtful touch.
Savory Egg Custard with White Asparagus puree, Sea Urchin, and seafood dashi ankake sauce. And now you know my Surname!
Final Thoughts
Fuji Seiran was built from the ground up, and given its sky-high rates (we're talking Asaba prices but without the pedigree), we expected near perfection. While certain design choices were puzzling, the views, rooms, warm hospitality, and outstanding cuisine made for an excellent stay.
Would I recommend Fuji Seiran if Mt. Fuji is hidden by clouds? I'm not so sure — unlike Hakone, there’s not much else to do. And for a true onsen experience, this wouldn’t be the best choice.
That said, if you have two nights to spare, Fuji Seiran would pair well with Asaba, as both offer completely different atmospheres in architecture, views, cuisine, and service ethos.
