We tend to be skeptical when seeing “Auberge” in the name of a ryokan; top properties in Japan typically offer exceptional cuisine, often Michelin-worthy, making the distinction feel unnecessary. That said, Auberge Suzukane came highly recommended for its renowned food quality, so we decided to give it a try. Given its proximity — just 10 minutes away — from Atamiso, one of the preeminent ryokans in Japan, Suzukane certainly had big shoes to fill. So how does it compare?


Mrs. KI-NRT with Okami-san (Proprietress) Mayumi Suzuki

The Property & Its Unusual History

Originally established in 1991 under a different name, the ryokan was acquired in 2000 and renamed Auberge Suzukane. This property is unique in several ways. Unlike most traditional ryokans, it is owned by a company rather than an individual — one that also operates multiple businesses in Fukushima, including a wedding planning enterprise. Suzukane also has an unconventional culinary evolution: initially serving French cuisine (hence the “Auberge” branding), it transitioned to creative kaiseki with subtle European influences about eight years ago, following encouragement from the company's late chairman.


Auberge Suzukane's reception area

Another break from tradition is the absence of an Okami-san (proprietress) until 2020. Prior to that, Suzukane operated more like a standard hotel, with a general manager. During the pandemic, however, a shift was made, and Mayumi Suzuki — formerly chief of the company’s wedding coordination business — stepped into the Okami-san role. This was an excellent decision, as she brings enthusiasm, warmth, and hospitality that deeply enhances the guest experience. Given Japan’s demographic challenges, particularly in rural areas, this change was likely a strategic career move as well.

And one more peculiarity… there's a full knight’s armor displayed at the entrance. Unexpected, to say the least!

Accommodations: A Blend of Modern Luxury & Artistry


Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) Kinu


Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) Kinu

We stayed in the VIP Room Kinu, the top-tier accommodation, which was recently renovated in October 2024. The space embodies stylish modern Japanese aesthetics — low-key, muted tones — with cutting-edge technology and artistic flair. It also stands out by offering both an open-air onsen and a Ganban-yoku (hot stone spa), the latter being a dry sauna-like experience where guests lie on heated natural stones.

Though the private onsen was delightful — Bandai Atami hot springs are a favorite of ours — it was a bit snug for two people. However, every room at Suzukane boasts free-flowing, direct-source Bandai Atami hot spring baths, each spanning an impressive 90 square meters and featuring a Western living area, Japanese tatami room, and a bedroom with proper beds. What elevates Kinu to VIP status is likely its recent renovation and unique artistic touches.


Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) Kinu - Open-air onsen bath


Kihinshitsu (VIP Room) Kinu - Ganban-yoku

Suzukane also offers a compelling summer onsen option, as both private rental baths, Kane-no-yu and Suzu-no-yu, feature both hot and cold spring baths, making them enjoyable year-round.

Service: A Personalized, Passionate Touch

The staff at Suzukane were outstanding. Our Nakai-san, Ms. Amitou, was professional, attentive, and always available. She also served our dinner alongside the Okami-san in a dynamic tag-team effort. Both women originally worked in wedding planning, which explains their natural hospitality and conversational ease — something not always common in Japan. At such an intimate luxury ryokan, where time and effort are devoted to guest interaction, their enthusiasm and pride in Suzukane shined through.


Private rental bath "Suzu no Yu"

A particularly memorable touch came when we mentioned traveling to Nanyo (Yamagata Prefecture) the next day. The Okami-san not only offered detailed recommendations but later returned with a professionally organized binder filled with custom printouts — maps, route options, descriptions, and photos of attractions. She also takes an active role in the culinary aspect: foraging local wild vegetables, making the breakfast salad dressing, and pickling vegetables that accompany the rice dishes.

Cuisine: Artistic, Innovative, & Thoughtfully Curated


Raw Purple Asparagus; "New" (fresh seasonal) Onion Mousse with Caviar


From left to right - Kinmedai Yakishimo (Splendid Alfonso), Kou Ika (Golden Cuttlefish), Otoro (Fatty Tuna), Nama Uni (Sea Urchin)


Fukushima "Fukuhakka" Wagyu Shabu Shabu

Dining at Suzukane was exceptional. The presentation was stunning, ingredients were meticulously selected, and flavors were well-balanced without being overpowering.

Our kaiseki dinner started with a standout appetizer: seasonal Onion Mousse with caviar, olive, and lemon sauce, served as a dipping accompaniment for raw purple Asparagus — a rare and prized seasonal delicacy in Fukushima. The Miyagi Prefecture oysters were sublime, rivaling (if not surpassing) those from Kumamoto or Miyazaki. A fun personal touch came when they served my beer with my picture on the foam — something I’d seen with cappuccino before, but never with beer!


Beer with me on the foam

The only slight disappointment was the Abalone dish, prepared Carpaccio-style with a tart sauce featuring carrots and wasabi oil, topped with chopped paprika and cucumbers. We would have much preferred it cooked like the Scallop dish the came several servings before — sautéed in Bourguignon parsley butter sauce (similar to what you see in Escargot dishes.) In fact, swapping the scallops for abalone altogether would have improved the meal, especially considering how filling the portions were — more so than at the other two ryokans on our trip.

Breakfast was equally impressive, with an extensive array of umami-rich condiments enhancing the meal. All in all, Suzukane delivered a culinary experience that left a lasting impression.


Auberge Suzukane breakfast

Comparing Suzukane & Atamiso


Atamiso's spectacular landscaping

So, how does Suzukane compare to Atamiso? Atamiso still holds the edge in my mind. It enjoys a more tranquil setting, whereas Suzukane is located in the town center. Atamiso boasts a beautifully manicured garden that enhances relaxation, while Suzukane’s only outdoor space is an inner courtyard leading to the guest rooms. Additionally, Atamiso offers private dining, whereas Suzukane’s half-koshitsu setup allows sounds from neighboring guests to intrude on the experience.


Atamiso's Tengo no Ma suite room

In terms of cuisine, it’s a matter of preference: Atamiso leans more toward traditional local flavors, while Suzukane embraces creativity. Both are excellent in their own right. Accommodation-wise, Atamiso’s rooms are traditional Japanese and showing slight signs of age, whereas Suzukane — particularly Kinu — offers a modern Japanese aesthetic with state-of-the-art amenities.


Seasonal appetizers at Atamiso

Atamiso remains my personal preference, but in the end, it comes down to individual taste. YMMV.