A short walking trail from Satonoyu. Yes, it really is this green in May.


View of the steps leading down to "Shinpeki" and "Minahada" private onsens.

As the weather warms up, we instinctively head north to chase the onsen experience. Mid-May is prime time for Tohoku (Fukushima, Yamagata, Miyagi, Iwate, Akita, and Aomori Prefectures), when Shinryoku season blankets the landscape in lush greenery, bridging the gap between cherry blossom season and the incoming summer heatwave. It also happens to be peak season for wild mountain vegetables—roots, herbs, flowers, shoots, and fungi that define Tohoku’s regional cuisine. This trip was no exception. Our first stop: Tsuchiyu Bettei Satonoyu, a secluded seven-room luxury ryokan nestled deep in the mountains of Fukushima.

Japanese reviews rave about the private bath Shinpeki - it’s straight out of a fairy tale, enveloped by a mystical forest with a stream flowing alongside the lower of its two outdoor baths. While most references to Satonoyu stars and ends with Shinpeki, this ryokan is definitely not a one-trick pony, and the availability of their top-tier accommodation sealed the deal for our visit.


The iconic "Shinpeki" private onsen at Tsuchiya Bettei Satonoyu


"Shinpeki" (lower bath)

Getting There
The simplest way to reach Satonoyu is by taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo - 90 minutes to Fukushima Station, then a 25-minute cab ride to the ryokan. We took a different route, flying into Sendai Airport to check out Shiroishi Castle and St. Anna's Garden, the latter a home to an exhibit of traditional Kokeshi wooden dolls.

Driving to Satonoyu in a rental car turned into an adventure. The final stretch took us down a steep hill with hairpin turns that make the Monaco Grand Prix circuit look like a flat Nebraska highway. A few three-point turns were necessary, but the challenge only added to the charm of the journey.


Satonoyu's reception area / lounge


Kason Villa

The Property
While Satonoyu is surrounded by untouched nature, the property itself is compact and thoughtfully designed. The main building houses a cozy lounge, several koshitsu (private dining rooms), and eight of the nine guest rooms. The ninth, Kason villa, stands alone just a short walk away.

A walkway leads guests to the four private bathing areas - there are no communal baths here. Beyond that, it’s all about peace, quiet, and immersion in nature. A short walking trail descends gently into the valley from the side entrance, passing a creek where wild watercress and parsley thrive. We spotted several delicate lilies along the way as well.


Shinpeki's upper bath

Private Onsen Experience
Satonoyu’s private onsen baths can be reserved in 45-minute increments through the front desk or your room attendant. The must-try bath? Shinpeki - without question. Book your preferred slot immediately upon check-in because reservations fill up fast.

In fact, Shinpeki is so sought after that Satonoyu deliberately limits ryokan guest bookings to seven rooms instead of nine, ensuring everyone gets a chance to experience it. This guest-first approach is something I truly appreciate about high-end ryokans - profit never overshadows hospitality.

And did Shinpeki live up to the hype? Absolutely. It rivals Takefue’s Chikurin no Yu as one of the most blissful private open-air onsens we’ve experienced. The spring water felt soft and silky, and the temperature was perfect for a long soak. Recent reports mention sightings of Kamoshika (Japanese Serow), a rare mountain goat-antelope native to Japan. Sadly, we didn’t spot one, but just knowing they roam nearby made the experience even more special.

Shinpeki consists of two baths: an upper rock bath and a stunning hinoki bath positioned lower by the stream. Don't miss the lower bath - it’s the postcard-perfect highlight. The other private baths were nice, but after Shinpeki, they felt anticlimactic. Our room’s open-air onsen didn’t have quite the same breathtaking view, but it matched Shinpeki in size and mineral content, so we alternated between the two throughout our stay.


Kason Villa


Kason Villa


Kason Villa

Our Stay in Kason Villa
We stayed in Kason, the only stand-alone villa, located just a few steps from the main building. While the other guest rooms looked pleasant, we were thrilled to have snagged Kason early - it’s the only suite at Satonoyu.

The path leading to Kason was lined with weeping cherry blossoms, which must be breathtaking in full bloom. This time of year, we were greeted by pink rhododendrons near the entrance and vibrant red camellias at the back. We’re developing an appreciation for flowers, and these seasonal blooms were a real treat.

Kason features a bedroom with Western-style beds, a living room, and an empty washitsu (Japanese-style room), traditionally used for extra futon bedding when more than two guests stay together. The villa’s open-air stone bath was impressive - expertly carved and seamlessly integrated into the surroundings.


Clear soup with Sea Bream Kudzu-uchi


Sawara no Inro-mushi

Service & Dining
Service was fantastic. We were hosted by Kazuki, a warm and welcoming local who handled our check-in, attended to our needs, and served our dinner. Our morning affairs, including breakfast, were just as expertly managed by Serina.

Guests can opt for in-room dining or a private koshitsu dining experience. The food was satisfying—not quite as memorable as the cuisine at our next two ryokan stops, but still beautifully crafted.

The standout dishes for us:
- Tai no Kuzu-uchi - Clear soup with Sea Bream Kudzu-uchi. The Kudzu starch coating creates a smooth, transparent texture and locks in umami.
- Sawara no Inro-mushi - Steamed Spanish Mackerel, Crab, and Kabocha with Crab Gin-an. The thickened Gin-an sauce, lightly seasoned with soy sauce and salt, had that signature glossy sheen.

It's remarkable how Japanese chefs never stop refining their craft - through curiosity, creativity, and relentless trial-and-error, they’ve perfected techniques that elevate even the simplest ingredients.


Japanese breakfast

Final Thoughts
Though the Tohoku region is filled with exceptional ryokan options, Tsuchiyu Bettei Satonoyu stands its ground against top-tier competitors. A combination of breathtaking nature, impeccable service, and the Shinpeki experience makes it well considering.