Bath Abbey

Did you know that cities traditionally were places which had cathedrals? Then why is Bath considered a City? Well it’s actually because of Bath Abbey, or more correctly known as the Abbey Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, which sits at the centre of Bath.

Its origins date to 675 AD, when King Osric of the Hwicce granted land for a convent and has been a place for Christian worship since 757AD. John of Tours moved the bishop’s seat to Bath Abbey in 1090 (from Wells) and began transforming it into a cathedral. It then had a co-cathedral situation-ship with Wells. Thus they were both declared cities. The interesting thing here is that although technically Wells is also a city, it basically has no built up area surrounding it and thus is actually the smallest city in the UK.

However, the bishops from the mid 1200s seemed to preferred Wells and the Abbey was allowed to fall into disrepair with the cathedral status being stripped from Bath Abbey sometime in the 1500s. However, the historical precedence of originally having had a cathedral meant that Bath has kept its city status despite it not really being a city.

In 1499, Bishop Oliver King initiated restoration, but work halted during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539. Revival efforts resumed in 1574 under Queen Elizabeth I, and by 1611, the abbey was restored for use. Victorian-era renovations by Sir George Gilbert Scott added fan vaulting and intricate pews, cementing its Gothic Revival identity. In modern times, additional restorations preserved its structure, including cleaning stonework, replacing sculptures, and reconstructing the pipe organ, ensuring Bath Abbey’s legacy as a historical and functional monument.

Timing wasn’t on our side as we arrived just as the evensong service began—a less-than-ideal moment to bring young kids into such a serene setting. So, we admired the stunning architecture from the outside instead. It’s a breathtaking sight, every bit as majestic as you’d expect. Just as we turned to head back to the hotel, the skies opened up in a dramatic downpour. Our impromptu refuge? The local Marks & Spencer, complete with a cozy café on the top floor—a surprisingly pleasant spot to escape the rain and regroup.

The Abbey, built of yellow Bath stone, features low aisles, a tall clerestory, and a cruciform plan, diverging from typical Perpendicular Gothic architecture. Its fan-vaulted ceiling, designed by Robert and William Vertue, and 52 windows covering 80% of wall space, create a bright, open interior. The 225-foot-long structure includes buttresses, battlements, and pinnacles, with key features added during George Manners’ 1830s restoration. The west front, built in 1520, showcases Jacob’s Ladder carvings and statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. Restoration in the 1990s revealed the stone’s original hue. Highlights include the seven-light east window by Clayton and Bell, a 161-foot central tower with ten anti-clockwise bells, and modern updates like stackable chairs replacing pews in 2018. The Gethsemane War Memorial Chapel and a rediscovered medieval tiled floor reflect the abbey’s evolving history. The abbey holds 617 wall memorials, 847 floor stones, and tributes to figures like Admiral Arthur Phillip and Isaac Pitman, alongside war memorials. Its Victorian and modern restorations maintain its architectural and cultural significance.

Organ
I want to apologise for anyone reading this who thinks that this part about the organ is very boring. The reason that I have a particularly affinity to the Klais as this was the true organ I had been exposed to up close and personal in the Haileybury College Chapel. Although there are plenty of fine examples of church organs in the world, such as the 5/80 Wurlitzer Theatre Organ of Jasper and Marian Sanfilippo or the 7,000-pipe organ in Lausanne Cathedral, this organ builder certainly has a place in my heart. The earliest properly recorded organ at Bath was built in 1708 and was replaced, rebuilt and added to over the centuries. Most recently it was rebuilt in 1997 by Klais Orgelbau which restored much of the 1895 design while retaining some elements of previous versions. For those of you that are interested it has 62 stops and 4 manuals (unfortunately Wikipedia says 63 stops).

The Royal Crescent
Jane Austen fans will recognize the timeless elegance of the Georgian era—the hallmark of Bath’s architectural charm. Defined by its symmetry, proportion, and classical details, Georgian design dominated the 18th century, blending grandeur with simplicity. In Bath, this style shines in iconic landmarks like the Royal Crescent and The Circus, where rows of honey-colored stone buildings create a sense of refined order. It’s a visual masterpiece that transports you straight into Austen’s world, where every façade tells a story of a city steeped in elegance and history.

One of the finest examples of Georgian architecture anywhere in the world

The Royal Crescent, is a row of 30 terraced houses and I think is a masterpiece of Georgian architecture designed by John Wood, the Younger, and built between 1767 and 1774 with the facade remaining more or less unchanged since its construction. This 500-foot-long crescent, featuring a uniform stone façade and 114 Ionic columns, exemplifies country in the city with views over adjacent parkland. A sunken stone wall (also known as a ha-ha – yes really!!) in front of the crescent separates the lawns without obstructing views.

Unfortunately the time of year wasn’t conducive to a beautiful photo opportunity. We managed to get some really nice photos despite the cloudy conditions. Just as I was taking the wide angle photo the heavens opened up (again!).


Royal Crescent, Bath – fine examples of Georgian architecture

At the back of these buildings are often large private gardens and in some cases (such as below), the garden was actuall open to the public for a certain number of hours a day for free – my favourite price!


You can find the original post on my realglobetrekker website