While this was our fifth visit to Asaba, our most recent stay was prior to my original post on this thread. Given the significance of this property, I decided to write a proper review to do Asaba justice. It truly represents the pinnacle of Japanese architecture, aesthetics, hospitality and cuisine. Among luxury Japanese inns near Tokyo, it unquestionably stands at the forefront.

For this trip, we brought some family members with us, and booked Tenko, Hagi and the newly rebuilt and expanded Hagoromo (more on the rooms in a bit.)


Asaba ryokan inside entrance

Asaba has existed since 1489 - before Westerners even discovered the New World(!) - and is meticulously preserved with great care by Misa Asaba, the current Okami-san (proprietress). She leads a ryokan staff that exemplifies the incomparable Japanese Omotenashi ethos.


Souvenir shop


Main hallway to the rooms and baths

Asaba is located in Shuzenji, a historic town at the heart of the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture. The ryokan is about a 10-minute cab ride from Shuzenji Station and is situated near the Onsen district center. Shuzenji Station is easily accessed from Tokyo Station via the Odoriko train, which operates 3 direct routes each way daily, taking about 2 hours and 15 minutes. The quaint hot springs town has several interesting areas to explore but is best appreciated with some knowledge of its rich history. Even for those who aren't Japan history buffs, there's plenty to enjoy during a leisurely afternoon stroll through the town's charming center. Highlights include visits to Shuzenji Temple, Tokko no Yu (a sacred hot spring said to been discovered by the legendary monk Kobo Daishi in 807 A.D.), the Bamboo Forest Path and the red-painted Katsura and Kaede bridges.


Asaba ryokan lounge


Asaba ryokan lounge

Asaba is permanently on my personal list of top ryokans for a multitide of reasons. This property has masterfully maintained the traditional aspects of Japanese hospitality and design while seamlessly integrating modern methods and comforts. Over hundreds of years, they have perfected the harmony and balance of Omotenashi. Upon following the pebble-strewn path to the front entrance, swapping your shoes for slippers, and entering the main building, you're immediately enveloped in a distinctly and unmistakably Wafu (Japanese) atmosphere. The ambiance subtly changes with the seasons - alongside a Lee Ufan mural at the entrance, there is always a seasonal Japanese flower arrangement displayed in a massive vase. Unlike more Samurai-era-esque ryokans (e.g., Wabizakura, Takefue, Yoyokaku, Ryugon), Asaba is light and airy, even in its narrow corridors. This is not necessarily better or worse - many ryokans intentionally embrace a mystical, dimy lit charm - but Asaba's openness gives it a cheerful, serene vibe by comparison. The fresh scent of tatami floors, the impeccable upkeep, and the lush greenery surrounding the ryokan all work together to sooth the soul. In the lounge, contemporary art tastefully complements the traditional architecture - among the installations are additional works by Lee Ufan as well as a 1978 Yayoi Kusama painting.


Daiyokujo onsen rotenburo (Open-air communal onsen bath)

The landscape behind Asaba is an exquisite representation of Japanese nature, culture and history. Directly across from the main building is an intricately designed back garden, framed by a dense forest-covered hill and a stunning bamboo grove. In between, a serene pond holds center stage, featuring Asaba's iconic Noh stage and a waterfall cascading down the embankment to the left. The pond is home to vibrant Nishiki Koi fish, which guests can feed using small treats placed on the terrace. The spectacular Noh stage (Gekkeiden), relocated from Tokyo during the Meiji period, seamlessly blends into the landscape. It's not just decorative - several times a year, Living National Treasures (Japan's equivalent of British luminaries knighted by royalty) perform traditional Japanese dance, theater, song and music, including Noh. We've had the privilege of attending two such performances: one featuring a Shamisen artist (a traditional string instrument) and another showcasing Kyogen (a more comedic counterpart to Noh). While Kyogen was a bit challenging to follow, witnessing Japanese culture in action was an absolute treat. At night, the entire area is illuminated, exuding a magical aura. The bamboo grove, in particular, looks otherworldly when lit. However, in winter and early spring (such was the case earlier this week), the landscape is less lush and colorful, with bare trees and fewer flowers in bloom.


View of the pond and Noh stage at night

Asaba is not vast like Takefue, which offers more areas to explore. However, the views here are so mesmerizing that simply being still is the whole point - whether enjoying coffee and snacks in the lounge, gazing across the lake from your guestroom, or soaking in the Daiyokujo Onsen Rotenburo (open-air communal onsen.) Asaba has only one communal open-air onsen; so access alternates between men and women every few hours. Additionally, there are two separate indoor gender-segregated onsen, as well as an indoor family bath. That said, since all rooms now have private onsen, it's highly likely you'll have the Daiyokujo Rotenburo all to yourself. We visited at 4PM and 10PM and didn't encounter another guest. This large, natural rock bath offers incredible panoramic views, distinct from those in the guestrooms. It's an experience not to be missed.

Our Nakai-san (female room attendant) for this visit, Noriko, has been with Asaba for 15 years. Clad in an exquisite kimono, she embodied the grace and elegance of traditional Japanese hospitality. Many ryokans now have staff in more casual attire, but Asaba maintains this refined touch. Despite the formal setting, service is never robotic - it is warm, engaging and unobtrusive. Noriko anticipated our every need. Each time we left our room, our shoes were not only placed at the entrance but pre-heated just moments before we planned to venture outside. The Aman ninjas have nothing on Asaba's kimono-clad ladies!


Villa Tenko, 220mē


Villa Tenko, 220mē


Villa Tenko, 220mē


Villa Tenko, 220mē - open-air onsen bath with a view


View from Villa Tenko, 220mē

Asaba has undergone significant renovations since our last visit. The most notable update? All rooms now have private onsen. Several first-floor accommodations were combined and rebuilt into larger suites, including Hagoromo and Ugetsu. As a result, Asaba reduced the total room count from 16 to 12. For the best view of the Noh stage, I recommend:

• Hagoromo (1st floor) - Modern Japanese style, open-air onsen on the terrace
• Moegi (2nd floor) - Spacious with a Western-style living room

I give the slight edge to Hagoromo since Moegi's onsen is smaller and has no views from the bath.

If tranquility is your priority, Hagi and Tenko are beyond compare. They're both on the ground floor, have no rooms above them, and trade views of the Noh stage and pond with picturesque scenery of the moss-laden grounds that feature a beautiful, babbling brook. Tenko, the sole standalone villa, offers the ultimate privacy, a sprawling deck, and an outdoor open-air onsen bath that's much larger with better views than the one in Hagi. It's also over twice as large, although the size contrast between them did not seem as stark to my naked eye.


Hagoromo, 126mē. Completely rebuilt in the Spring of 2023


Hagoromo, 126mē


Hagoromo, 126mē

We stayed in Hagoromo (we've stayed in Hagi before, haven't tried Hagoromo since the rebuild and wanted to give my sister a chance to enjoy Tenko - nice guy I am, right?), which is quite different from Tenko and Hagi but no less stunning. It's far more modern in its build, decor and furnishings, and everything is shiny and new. It's definitely the pick among the rooms facing the Noh stage and the one to get if there is a performance on the day of one's stay. It features all of the modern technologies found in contemporary luxury hotels, including adjustable heated floors (this is now standard in all Asaba rooms) and electronically-controlled blinds. We loved the simplicity of the room, the muted, earthy tones, and the stylish shower and bath with a with breathtaking views of the pond and Noh stage.

Asaba's kaiseki cuisine is top-notch. While the menu evolves with the seasons, it maintains a sense of continuity that repeat guests appreciate. With few exceptions, ingredients are locally sourced and seasonal, including:

• Spring vegetables: Udo (Japanese Spikenard), Kawaseri (Japanese Dropwort), Hanaho (Shiso flowers), Nanohana (Rapeseed plant) and Kinome (Young leaves of the sansho plant)
• Seafood from Suruga Bay: Tai (Red Sea Bream), Tachiuo (Cutlass Fish), Aori Ika (Bigfin Reef Squid) and Hamaguri (Common Hard Clam)

Wasabi also made a frequent appearance; the Izu Peninsula is home to several famous wasabi farms, and we loved consuming the wasabi just by itself. Most dishes at Asaba are not crazy creative, but rather an evolution of the tried-and-true kaiseki formula done to wonderful effect - the subtle broth flavors in particular were full of umami but never heavy or overly salted.


Suruga Bay Abalone and Abalone liver sauce over steamed glutonous rice. Pure bliss.


Steamed and Deep-fried Ise Spiny Lobster with broth soup made from the Lobster head

For a sweet ending, we had a choice between three offerings. Blancmange is Asaba's speciality; it's a French dessert that's similar to panna cotta - a category of eggless custard desserts. The second choice was Kuzukiri with Japanese black sugar syrup. Kuzukiri is a transparent noodle made from water and kudzu (Japanese Arrowroot powder), and was awesome here. Finally, they offered Shizuoka Prefecture-grown Crown Melon, arguably the finest musk melon in the world, fetching over $200 per piece! Finally - since cherry blossoms season was imminent, Asaba served us ice cream made from cherry blossom petals and liqueur - refreshing and not too sweet, and it was a wonderful way to end the evening's culinary journey.


Asaba ryokan breakfast. Simple yet unforgettable.

Breakfast was a similar in approach - simple yet wonderful. A whole shin tamanegi (newly harvested Onions) simmered in dashi with grated ginger on top? Absolutely sublime. Dashimaki tamago (rolled Japanese omelette in dashi)? Possibly the best I've ever had. And for rice, they recommend you top it with katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes shaved 0.001mm thin), wasabi and soy sauce. Really? Yes, really, and we were gobsmacked at how wondrous such a basic serving could turn out.


View of the pond and Noh stage from the lounge

We still have many ryokans to explore, but when hosting family and friends (Japanese or foreign, doesn't matter), few compare to Asaba. The beauty, peace, and cultural immersion it offers is unparalleled - and the fact that it’s easily accessible from Tokyo is simply a bonus.

Even if it were far off the beaten path, Asaba would still be worth the journey.